Clothing Care Guide

OD's Care Guide

Universal Garment Care Standards
Written by: Chris O'Dea
Published: October 2025
Status: Master Reference Document

Why Care Matters

Proper care extends garment lifespan by years, preserves technical performance, and protects your investment. This guide covers universal care principles applicable across most garments.

Brand-specific care instructions (specialized fabrics, technical membranes, exotic materials) are found in individual brand guides. Always check garment care labels first.

The Universal Golden Rules

❌ NEVER:

Use fabric softener on:

  • Technical/performance fabrics (clogs membrane pores, coats DWR)
  • Merino wool or cashmere (coats natural fibers)
  • Moisture-wicking fabrics (permanently reduces wicking performance)
  • Stretch fabrics with elastane (breaks down elastic fibers)

Tumble dry:

  • Leather (destroys structure permanently)
  • Cashmere or fine merino (shrinks and damages fibers)
  • Technical shells without checking care label first
  • Any garment labeled "dry flat"

Use hot water on:

  • Wool or cashmere (causes severe shrinkage)
  • Technical fabrics (damages membranes and coatings)
  • Dark colors (accelerates fading)

Store:

  • Garments dirty or damp (promotes mildew, attracts moths)
  • Knitwear on hangers (stretches shoulders permanently)
  • In plastic bags long-term (traps moisture)
  • In direct sunlight (UV degrades fabrics and fades colors)

✓ ALWAYS:

Before washing:

  • Check care label (overrides general guidance)
  • Close all zips, velcro, buttons (prevents snagging)
  • Turn dark garments inside-out (preserves color)
  • Empty all pockets
  • Check for stains requiring pre-treatment

During washing:

  • Use appropriate temperature (see guidelines below)
  • Choose correct detergent type for fabric
  • Don't overload machine (fabrics need movement space)
  • Use extra rinse cycle for technical fabrics (ensures complete detergent removal)

After washing:

  • Remove from machine immediately (prevents creasing and musty smell)
  • Reshape garments while damp (especially knitwear)
  • Check care label for drying method
  • Store only when completely dry

Washing Temperature Guide

Temperature Fahrenheit Best For Avoid For
Cold (20°C) 68°F Dark colors, delicates, first wash of new items Heavy soiling, whites
Cool (30°C) 86°F Most everyday garments, technical fabrics, colors Stubborn stains
Warm (40°C) 104°F Whites, light colors, bed linens, towels Wool, silk, technical membranes
Hot (60°C+) 140°F+ Sanitizing whites, removing heavy soiling Almost everything else
Default recommendation: When in doubt, wash at 30°C. It's safer for fabrics and more energy-efficient.

Detergent Selection

Liquid vs. Powder

Liquid detergent:

  • ✓ Dissolves completely in cold/cool water
  • ✓ Better for technical fabrics (rinses cleanly)
  • ✓ Doesn't leave residue in membrane pores
  • ✗ More expensive per wash

Powder detergent:

  • ✓ More economical
  • ✓ Better cleaning power for heavy soiling
  • ✗ Can leave residue if not fully dissolved
  • ✗ Not recommended for technical fabrics

Recommendation: Use liquid for quality garments, performance wear, and dark colors.

Detergent Types

Standard liquid detergent:

  • Use for: Cotton shirts, casual wear, everyday items
  • Avoid for: Technical fabrics, wool, silk

Technical wash (Nikwax, Grangers):

  • Use for: Waterproof shells, down jackets, technical outerwear
  • Purpose: Cleans without damaging membranes or DWR coatings

Wool/cashmere detergent:

  • Use for: Merino, cashmere, fine knitwear, silk
  • Purpose: pH-neutral formula protects delicate natural fibers

Down wash (specialized):

  • Use for: Down-insulated jackets and sleeping bags
  • Purpose: Cleans without stripping natural oils from down

Care by Fabric Type

Cotton

Washing:

  • 30-40°C for colors and everyday wear
  • 40-60°C for whites (if care label permits)
  • Liquid or powder detergent both fine
  • Turn dark colors inside-out

Drying:

  • Tumble dry low heat OR hang dry
  • Remove promptly to reduce creasing
  • Iron while slightly damp for crisp finish (if desired)

Special notes:

  • Egyptian cotton, high-thread-count cotton: Wash 30°C, handle as premium fabric
  • Organic cotton: Same care as standard cotton

Merino Wool

Washing:

  • Hand wash preferred: Lukewarm water (max 30°C), wool detergent
  • Machine wash acceptable: Delicate cycle, 30°C, wool-specific detergent in mesh bag
  • Never use fabric softener (coats fibers)
  • Minimal agitation

Drying:

  • Roll in clean towel to remove excess water (don't wring)
  • Lay flat on clean, dry towel
  • Reshape to original dimensions while damp
  • Dry away from heat and direct sunlight
  • Allow 24-48 hours for complete drying

Storage:

  • Fold, never hang (hanging stretches)
  • Store in breathable cotton bag
  • Use cedar blocks or lavender sachets (moth deterrent)

Cashmere

Washing:

  • Hand wash only: Lukewarm water (max 30°C), neutral wool detergent or baby shampoo
  • Soak maximum 5 minutes (longer risks color bleeding)
  • Massage gently, never twist or wring
  • Rinse thoroughly in cool water
  • Roll in towel to remove excess water

Drying:

  • Lay flat on clean, dry towel
  • Reshape carefully to original dimensions
  • Dry away from heat and sunlight
  • Never tumble dry (causes severe shrinkage and damage)

Storage:

  • Clean before storing (oils and food attract moths)
  • Fold, never hang
  • Breathable cotton bag with cedar or lavender
  • Check periodically for moth damage

Pilling management:

  • Natural for cashmere (not a defect)
  • Use cashmere comb or electric fabric shaver
  • Never pull pills by hand (damages base fibers)

Leather

Cleaning:

  • Wipe with soft, dry cloth after each wear
  • For dirt: Slightly damp cloth, wipe gently
  • For stains: Use specialist leather cleaner only
  • Never soak, submerge, or machine wash

Conditioning:

  • Every 6 months (spring and autumn)
  • Use neutral leather conditioner or cream
  • Apply with soft cloth in circular motions
  • Work into seams and flex points
  • Let absorb overnight
  • Buff with dry cloth

Storage:

  • Store in breathable garment bag (not plastic)
  • Use padded hangers (maintains shoulder shape)
  • Stuff sleeves with acid-free tissue if storing long-term
  • Cool, dry location away from direct heat and sunlight

Water exposure:

  • If wet: Pat dry with towel, stuff with newspaper, dry naturally away from heat
  • Never use hairdryer or radiator (cracks leather)

Denim

Raw/selvedge denim:

  • First 6 months: Avoid washing (develops natural fade patterns)
  • First wash: Cold soak 30 minutes, minimal agitation, hang dry
  • Ongoing: Wash every 20-30 wears, cold water, inside-out
  • Never tumble dry (shrinks and damages)

Standard denim:

  • Wash inside-out, cold water (preserves color)
  • Tumble dry low OR hang dry
  • Wash every 5-10 wears (or when visibly dirty/smelly)

Silk

Washing:

  • Hand wash only: Cool water, silk-specific detergent
  • Minimal agitation, never wring
  • Rinse in cool water until detergent completely removed
  • Roll in towel to remove water

Drying:

  • Hang or lay flat
  • Away from direct sunlight (UV degrades silk)
  • Iron on low with pressing cloth if needed (while slightly damp)

Linen

Washing:

  • Machine wash cold to warm (30-40°C)
  • Liquid detergent
  • Linen softens and improves with washing

Drying:

  • Air dry or tumble low heat
  • Remove while slightly damp
  • Iron while damp for crisp finish (if desired)
  • Or embrace natural rumpled texture

Technical/Performance Fabrics

Washing:

  • Cool water (30°C maximum)
  • Technical wash liquid (Nikwax, Grangers) or mild liquid detergent
  • Never fabric softener or bio detergent
  • Close all zips and velcro
  • Extra rinse cycle recommended

Drying:

  • Check care label (varies by technology)
  • Many waterproof shells: Tumble dry low heat (reactivates DWR)
  • Stretch fabrics: Air dry only (heat damages elastane)

Stain Treatment

General principles:

  • Act quickly (fresh stains easier to remove)
  • Blot, don't rub (rubbing pushes stain deeper)
  • Test treatment on hidden area first
  • Work from outside of stain toward center

Common Stains

Oil-based (food grease, makeup)

  • Blot excess with paper towel
  • Apply liquid detergent directly to stain
  • Let sit 10 minutes
  • Wash as normal in warmest water fabric allows

Protein-based (blood, sweat)

  • Rinse immediately in cold water (hot water sets protein stains)
  • Soak in cold water with enzyme detergent
  • Wash in cold water

Tannin-based (coffee, tea, wine)

  • Blot excess immediately
  • Flush with cold water from reverse side
  • Apply liquid detergent or stain remover
  • Wash as normal

Mud

  • Let dry completely
  • Brush off dried mud
  • Apply liquid detergent to remaining stain
  • Wash as normal

Storage Guidelines

Short-term (Between Wears)

Shirts, trousers, casual wear:

  • Hang on appropriate hangers (curved for jackets, clips for trousers)
  • Allow to air for few hours before storing (releases moisture)
  • Store in well-ventilated wardrobe

Knitwear:

  • Fold, never hang (prevents shoulder stretch)
  • Allow to rest 24 hours between wears
  • Rotate pieces rather than wearing same item consecutively

Long-term (Seasonal Storage)

Before storing:

  • Clean thoroughly (dirt and oils attract moths and cause degradation)
  • Ensure completely dry (damp causes mildew)
  • Repair any damage (small issues become large issues in storage)

Storage conditions:

  • Cool, dry location
  • Away from direct sunlight
  • Good air circulation
  • Use breathable garment bags (not plastic)
  • Cedar blocks or lavender sachets for moth protection

What to hang:

  • Tailored jackets and coats
  • Dresses and structured garments
  • Trousers (using clips or fold over bar)

What to fold:

  • Knitwear (all types—prevents stretching)
  • T-shirts and casual shirts
  • Jeans and casual trousers
  • Delicate items

Ironing Guidelines

Temperature by Fabric

Symbol Temperature Fabric Types
• Low (110°C) Silk, acetate, acrylic, nylon
•• Medium (150°C) Wool, polyester, rayon
••• High (200°C) Cotton, linen

Ironing Techniques

General rules:

  • Iron while slightly damp for best results
  • Use steam for cotton and linen
  • Turn delicate fabrics inside-out
  • Never iron over stains (heat sets them)
  • Use pressing cloth for delicate fabrics

Shirts:

  1. Start with collar (from points toward center)
  2. Iron shoulders and yoke
  3. Iron cuffs (inside first, then outside)
  4. Iron sleeves (smooth along seam, iron flat)
  5. Iron body (back, fronts, front placket last)

Trousers:

  1. Turn pockets inside-out, iron flat
  2. Iron waistband
  3. Lay legs flat matching seams for crisp crease (if desired)
  4. Iron both sides of each leg

When to Seek Professional Help

Professional dry cleaning recommended for:

  • "Dry clean only" labels
  • Tailored blazers and suits
  • Garments with complex construction or linings
  • Silk ties and delicate silk garments
  • Items with heavy embellishments
  • Anything you're uncertain about

Professional repairs recommended for:

  • Reweaving or invisible mending
  • Zipper replacement on leather or complex garments
  • Tailoring adjustments on expensive pieces
  • Damage to technical fabrics/membranes

Contact OD's for Care Guidance

Questions about caring for specific items? Contact us with:

  • Garment type and fabric
  • The issue (stain, damage, uncertainty)
  • Care label information

We'll provide guidance or connect you with appropriate specialists.

Visit OD's Designer Clothing
44 Barrow Street, St Helens
Open: Mon-Sat 9-5.30pm
Email: info@odsdesignerclothing.co.uk

Related Guides:

Verification: Chris O'Dea — October 2025
Next Review: April 2026