Shirt Fabrics
The fabric decides how a shirt feels, how smart it looks and how it copes with heat or cold. This hub explains the main shirt fabrics and weaves, so a product description tells you how a shirt will wear. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Smooth weaves
Poplin
A fine, tightly woven cotton with a crisp finish.
What defines it
Poplin is a plain weave with a smooth, close surface that stays light and crisp, the classic dress-shirt cloth.
Who it suits
It suits smart and formal shirts. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Fine Cotton
A premium, silky-smooth long-staple cotton.
What defines it
Fine long-staple cottons are spun from longer fibres for a smoother, stronger, more lustrous cloth that feels luxurious.
Who it suits
It suits premium smart shirts. Browse Paul Smith shirts (/collections/mens-paul-smith-shirts).
Twill
A soft, durable weave with a diagonal rib.
What defines it
Twill has a diagonal line in the weave that gives a soft handle, good drape and strong resistance to creasing.
Who it suits
It suits smart shirts that travel well.
Textured weaves
Oxford Cloth
A soft basketweave with subtle texture and body.
What defines it
Oxford cloth uses a basketweave that gives a soft, slightly rough texture with body, the most versatile shirt fabric.
Who it suits
It suits smart-casual wear dressed up or down. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Dobby
A cloth with small woven-in geometric patterns.
What defines it
Dobby uses a special loom to weave small tonal patterns or textures straight into the cloth for a subtle, smart effect.
Who it suits
It suits smart shirts that want quiet detail.
Herringbone
A twill woven in a repeating V pattern.
What defines it
Herringbone is a twill variation that reverses direction to form a soft V or zigzag, adding depth and a smart texture.
Who it suits
It suits smart-casual shirts with subtle interest.
Warm and casual
Flannel
A brushed cotton that feels soft and warm.
What defines it
Flannel is brushed on the surface to raise a soft nap that traps warmth, ideal for autumn and winter shirts.
Who it suits
It suits casual cold-weather wear. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Linen
A breathable flax cloth for hot weather.
What defines it
Linen is woven from flax and breathes exceptionally well, keeping you cool and forming a relaxed, characterful crease.
Who it suits
It suits summer and holiday shirts.
Chambray
A light, denim-look plain-weave cotton.
What defines it
Chambray is a light plain weave with a coloured warp and white weft, giving a soft, faded, denim-style look without the weight.
Who it suits
It suits relaxed, everyday casual shirts.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best fabric for a smart shirt?
Poplin is the classic choice for a smart shirt because its fine, tightly woven surface stays crisp and light and takes a press well. Twill is a good alternative if you want a softer feel and better crease resistance, and it still looks smart under a suit.
Which shirt fabric is coolest in summer?
Linen is the coolest shirt fabric because the flax fibres breathe and move moisture away from the skin. Chambray and lightweight cotton are good alternatives if you want a smoother finish, as linen creases readily by nature.
What fabric is warmest for winter?
Flannel is the warmest common shirt fabric. It is brushed to raise a soft surface nap that traps warm air against the skin, which is why flannel checks are a staple of autumn and winter casual wear.