Shirt Buying Guide

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Choosing the right men's shirt

Shirt Buying Guide

How to choose the fabric, collar, cuff and fit that suit you

OD's Designer Clothing · Knowledge Hubs

Buying the right shirt comes down to matching fabric, collar, cuff and fit to how you will wear it. This hub walks through each decision, so you buy a shirt you will actually reach for. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).

Start with the use

Define the Occasion

Decide how smart the shirt needs to be.

How to decide

Choose a formal fabric and collar for the office and events, and a casual weave and relaxed collar for the weekend.

Quick tip

Buy for the setting you dress for most. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).

Choose the Fabric

Pick a cloth that matches the season and use.

How to decide

Choose poplin or twill for smart wear, Oxford for versatile smart-casual, linen for summer and flannel for winter.

Quick tip

Oxford is the most flexible single choice.

Choose the Collar

Let the collar set the tone.

How to decide

Choose a spread or point collar for a tie, a button-down for smart-casual, and a grandad or Cuban for relaxed wear.

Quick tip

A medium spread is the safest all-rounder.

Get the fit right

Get the Fit Right

Fit the shoulders and neck first.

How to decide

Choose a fit where the shoulder seam sits at your shoulder edge and you can fit two fingers inside a done-up collar.

Quick tip

Slim for lean, tailored for most, classic for fuller builds. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).

Check the Length

Choose a length you can tuck or leave out.

How to decide

A shirt to tuck should have a longer, curved hem; a shirt to wear out should sit around mid-fly with a straighter hem.

Quick tip

Overshirts and boxy styles are made to wear out.

Check the Cuff

Match the cuff to the formality.

How to decide

Choose a barrel cuff for everyday and smart wear, and a French cuff only when an event calls for cufflinks.

Quick tip

A cuff should slip over a watch but not the hand. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).

Judge the quality

Judge the Make

Look at seams, stitching and buttons.

How to decide

Check for flat-felled seams, single-needle stitching, neat buttonholes and a firm collar as signs of a quality shirt.

Quick tip

Pearl buttons and a split yoke mark a fine shirt. Browse Paul Smith shirts (/collections/mens-paul-smith-shirts).

Build a Core

Buy versatile shirts before statement ones.

How to decide

Start with white and light-blue smart shirts and a versatile Oxford, then add colours, checks and casual styles.

Quick tip

A few plain shirts beat many novelty ones.

Frequently asked questions

How do I choose a good shirt?

Start with how you will wear it, then match the fabric and collar to that setting; poplin and a spread collar for smart wear, Oxford and a button-down for smart-casual. Get the shoulders, neck and length right, and check the seams, stitching, buttonholes and collar as signs of quality before you buy.

What shirts should every man own?

A core wardrobe is a white smart shirt, a light-blue smart shirt, a versatile Oxford, and a casual check or chambray. That covers the office, smart-casual and the weekend. From there you can add linen for summer, an overshirt for layering and richer colours as you like.

How much should I spend on a shirt?

Spend enough to get a good fabric and a well-made collar, seams and buttons, since those decide how a shirt looks and lasts rather than the label alone. It is usually better to own fewer, better shirts you wear often than many cheap ones that lose their shape quickly.

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