Shirt Construction
How a shirt is put together decides how well it holds its shape and how long it lasts. This hub explains the main construction points, so you can judge quality by more than the fabric. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Collar and cuffs
Collar Interlining
The inner layer that gives a collar its shape.
What defines it
Interlining is the stiffening fused or sewn inside a collar and cuff; a good fused or floating interlining keeps a crisp, even shape.
Who it suits
It suits smart shirts that must look sharp. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Collar Stand
The band the collar folds down from.
What defines it
The collar stand is the upright band around the neck; a taller, well-cut stand holds the collar up neatly and frames the face.
Who it suits
It suits well-made formal shirts.
Seams and joins
Flat-Felled Seams
Folded, double-stitched seams with no raw edges.
What defines it
A flat-felled seam encloses the raw edges and stitches through twice, giving a strong, clean seam that resists fraying.
Who it suits
It suits durable, well-made shirts.
Side Seams
The joins running down each side of the shirt.
What defines it
Neat, straight side seams with a fine stitch keep the shirt hanging square; single-needle stitching is a mark of quality.
Who it suits
It suits shirts built to keep their shape. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Single-Needle Stitching
Seams sewn one side at a time for a clean line.
What defines it
Single-needle stitching sews each side of a seam separately for a flatter, cleaner, less puckered finish than a faster twin-needle run.
Who it suits
It suits premium smart shirts.
Finishing
Stitch Density
How many stitches sit in each inch of seam.
What defines it
A higher stitch count per inch makes seams stronger and smoother; loose, wide stitching tends to pucker and give way sooner.
Who it suits
It suits shirts you want to last. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Buttonholes
The stitched openings the buttons pass through.
What defines it
Tightly stitched, clean buttonholes hold their shape and resist fraying; a hand-finished buttonhole is a sign of a fine shirt.
Who it suits
It suits smart shirts worn often.
Side Gussets
Small reinforcements at the base of the side seams.
What defines it
A side gusset is a small triangle sewn where the front and back hems meet, strengthening a point that takes a lot of strain.
Who it suits
It suits durable, carefully made shirts.
Frequently asked questions
How can I tell if a shirt is well made?
Look at the seams and stitching: flat-felled side seams, single-needle stitching, a high stitch count and neat buttonholes all point to quality. A firm, even collar, a split yoke and small reinforcing gussets at the hem are further signs the shirt is built to keep its shape and last.
What is a flat-felled seam?
A flat-felled seam folds the fabric edges under and stitches through them twice so no raw edge is left exposed. It creates a strong, clean seam that lies flat and resists fraying, which is why it is used on well-made shirts and jeans.
What is single-needle stitching?
Single-needle stitching means each side of a seam is sewn in a separate pass with one needle rather than both sides at once. It takes longer but produces a flatter, cleaner seam that puckers less, so it is a mark of a more carefully made shirt.