Raw Denim Explained

In brief: Raw denim, also called dry denim, is denim that has not been washed, distressed or softened after dyeing. It starts stiff and deeply saturated with indigo, then develops personalised fades, such as whiskers and honeycombs, through wear. Sanforized raw denim is pre-shrunk and shrinks only 2 to 3 percent, while unsanforized loomstate denim can shrink 7 to 10 percent on the first wash.

What is raw denim?

Raw denim, also known as dry or unwashed denim, is denim that has not undergone any washing, distressing or softening after it is dyed and woven. It arrives stiff, dark and full of the sizing agents used during weaving. Because the indigo is at full saturation and the fabric is untouched, raw denim is effectively a blank canvas that records how you wear it. Whether a pair is Sanforized or not matters for sizing: Sanforized denim is mechanically pre-shrunk and limits shrinkage to around 2 to 3 percent, while unsanforized loomstate denim is untreated and can shrink 7 to 10 percent on its first wash.

How does raw denim develop personalised fades?

Raw denim retains its original indigo saturation, stiff hand-feel and weaving sizing. Because the yarn is ring-dyed, only the surface of each yarn absorbs indigo while the core stays white. Through extended wear, friction wears the surface indigo away in the places you move most, producing personalised patterns: whiskers at the hips, honeycombs behind the knees and vertical fades along high-friction seams. The longer you wear raw denim before its first wash, the more pronounced and individual these patterns become.

What is one-wash denim?

One-wash denim is unsanforized fabric that has been washed a single time to remove shrinkage. It offers much easier sizing while keeping many of the characteristics of unwashed denim. For many people it is the most accessible entry point to premium denim, because it avoids the commitment of a long raw break-in period. That single wash also removes the starch sizing that can irritate skin during the first few weeks of wear.

How to care for raw denim

Delay the first wash as long as is practical to let fade patterns develop. When you do wash, turn the jeans inside out and wash cold with minimal detergent, then hang dry, because hot water and tumble drying accelerate indigo loss and shrinkage. After the break-in, wash infrequently, spot-clean where you can, and air the jeans after each wear to keep them fresh. Store them on a hanger or folded flat.