1 | Brand Overview — Why Paul Smith Matters

From a 3×3 metre shop in Nottingham in 1970, Paul Smith built one of fashion's rare success stories: a globally recognized British brand that has remained majority-owned by its founder for over five decades. Operating 130+ stores across 60+ countries, Paul Smith represents something increasingly scarce in luxury fashion—creative independence and long-term vision uncompromised by conglomerate ownership.

The brand's defining philosophy, "classic with a twist," manifests as British tailoring elevated by unexpected details: contrasting linings, playful embroidery, and the iconic Signature Stripe motif that has become synonymous with sophisticated individuality.

Unlike fashion houses absorbed by LVMH, Kering, or Richemont, Paul Smith answers to no shareholders except Sir Paul Smith himself, ensuring every collection reflects personal creative vision rather than quarterly profit targets.

Paul Smith operates two menswear collections: the mainline Paul Smith (sophisticated tailoring and premium casualwear) and PS by Paul Smith (contemporary diffusion line). While the brand has expanded into womenswear, accessories, and homeware, its foundation remains menswear—the category that built its reputation.

2 | Heritage & Philosophy — From Nottingham to Global Icon

The Foundation (1970–1979)

Sir Paul Smith opened his first retail space in 1970—a modest 3×3 metre shop in Byard Lane, Nottingham. With no formal fashion training, Smith built his business on instinct, curation, and an eye for detail that blended traditional menswear with emerging cultural movements.

His early retail philosophy treated the shop as a "gallery for clothes"—a concept that would define the Paul Smith retail experience for decades.

In 1976, Paul Smith held his first menswear show in Paris, establishing the brand's presence in the international fashion calendar. Three years later, in 1979, the brand opened its first London flagship store at 43-44 Floral Street, Covent Garden—a location that remains central to the Paul Smith identity today.

International Expansion (1980s–1990s)

The 1980s marked rapid international growth. Paul Smith entered the Japanese market in 1984, establishing a presence that would become one of the brand's strongest international markets. The brand's aesthetic—restrained British tailoring with unexpected detail—resonated deeply with Japanese consumers' appreciation for craftsmanship and subtlety.

Expansion into the United States followed in the mid-1980s, with flagship stores in New York and Los Angeles. By the early 1990s, Paul Smith had established a global footprint spanning Europe, Asia, and North America.

In 1993, the brand launched its first womenswear collection, diversifying beyond its menswear foundation.

Consolidation & Modern Era (2000s–Present)

The 2000s brought expansion into accessories, footwear, eyewear, and licensing partnerships while maintaining the brand's creative independence. Unlike many heritage brands that sold majority stakes to luxury conglomerates, Sir Paul Smith retained majority ownership and creative control.

2020 marked the brand's 50th anniversary—a milestone celebrated with retrospectives, exhibitions, and renewed focus on the brand's founding principles: quality, creativity, and independence.

Recent years have emphasized sustainability initiatives, digital innovation, and strategic collaborations including the notable 2024 partnership with Barbour (Paul Smith Loves Barbour), which reinterpreted British heritage outerwear through Paul Smith's creative lens.

Design Philosophy: "Classic with a Twist"

Paul Smith's design philosophy centers on a deceptively simple concept: "classic with a twist." This manifests as timeless garment silhouettes elevated by unexpected details—contrasting cuff linings, playful embroidery, unconventional colour pairings, or hidden messages sewn into seams.

The aesthetic is characterized by:

• Understated Surprise: Clean, traditional forms that reveal personality upon closer inspection
• Colour Discipline: Controlled palettes of neutrals, pastels, and bold accents—never chaotic
• British Tailoring Foundation: Sharp shoulders, proper proportions, and attention to construction detail
• Playful Intelligence: Humour and references without irony or kitsch
• Material Honesty: Quality fabrics that age well rather than trends that date quickly

The Signature Stripe

Paul Smith's most recognizable design code is the Signature Stripe—a multi-coloured motif that has been woven, printed, embroidered, and reinterpreted across virtually every product category since its introduction in the 1970s.

The stripe draws inspiration from both Victorian deckchair fabric and 1960s London counterculture, embodying Paul Smith's ability to reference heritage while remaining contemporary. It appears subtly on garment interiors, boldly on accessories, and architecturally in store design and packaging.

The stripe is not a logo—it's a design philosophy compressed into a visual signature.

3 | Craftsmanship & Technologies — Tailoring Meets Innovation

Tailoring & Construction Philosophy

Paul Smith garments are built on a foundation of traditional British tailoring adapted for contemporary life. The brand's construction standards prioritize:

• High-Count Shirting: Italian and British cotton shirting with thread counts between 100-140s for durability and drape
• Full Canvas Construction: In tailored jackets where structure and longevity matter
• Precise Finishing: Hand-finished details including buttonholes, collar points, and hem stitching
• Pattern Engineering: Cuts designed for natural body movement rather than static display
• Component Quality: Buttons, zippers, and hardware selected for longevity

The tailoring philosophy balances European trim proportions with British ease—garments that look sharp but don't restrict movement or require constant adjustment.

Material Innovation & Sourcing

Paul Smith has increasingly integrated performance materials and sustainable fabrics into collections without compromising aesthetic standards:

Natural Fibers:

• Organic cotton (GOTS-certified where possible)
• Merino wool from traceable sources
• Linen and hemp blends for spring/summer collections
• Recycled cashmere programs for knitwear

Technical Fabrics:

• Recycled polyester for outerwear and linings
• PFC-free water-repellent treatments on jackets and coats
• Stretch cotton blends (2-3% elastane) for comfort without visual compromise
• Moisture-wicking treatments for performance casualwear

Specialized Materials:

• Waxed cotton (traditional Barbour-style for heritage outerwear)
• Nylon-cotton blends for packable technical pieces
• Japanese selvedge denim for premium jeans

The Barbour Collaboration: Paul Smith Loves Barbour

Launched in Autumn/Winter 2024/25, Paul Smith Loves Barbour represents a meeting of two British design institutions. The capsule collection reinterprets Barbour's iconic waxed cotton jackets through Paul Smith's creative lens:

Key Pieces:

• Reimagined Bedale jackets with Signature Stripe accents and patchwork waxed cotton
• Graphic t-shirts featuring Friesian cow motifs inspired by British countryside
• Accessories including enamel pin badges and collaborative branding

Creative Philosophy: The collaboration channels "Best in Show" country fair aesthetics—celebrating British rural heritage with a knowing, sophisticated eye.

Repairability & Longevity Design

A defining characteristic of Paul Smith's approach is the emphasis on garment longevity. The brand offers "The Paul Smith Treatment"—an in-house repair and alteration service available through flagship stores and select retailers.

Services include:

• Button replacement and reattachment
• Zipper repair or replacement
• Hem adjustments
• Lining repairs
• Re-tailoring for fit changes

This commitment to repairability reflects a philosophy that quality garments should have long lives, not seasonal relevance.

4 | Cultural Presence — Strategic Partnerships & Influence

Strategic Partnerships & Collaborations

Paul Smith has maintained cultural relevance through intelligent, long-term collaborations with brands and institutions that share creative values:

Design & Lifestyle Brands:

• Barbour (Paul Smith Loves Barbour—British heritage outerwear)
• Caran d'Ache (Swiss luxury pens and writing instruments)
• Leica (German camera manufacturer—limited edition cameras)
• Anglepoise (British lighting design)
• Globe-Trotter (British luxury luggage)

Automotive:

• Land Rover (Defender special editions with Paul Smith design)
• MINI (Limited edition vehicles with Signature Stripe details)

Cycling:

• Mercian Cycles (British handmade bicycle frames)
• Rapha (Premium cycling apparel collaborations)

Art & Culture:

• Collaborations with contemporary artists
• Museum exhibition partnerships (Design Museum, V&A)
• Support for emerging designers through mentorship programs

Fashion Industry Influence

Pitti Uomo Return (2025): Paul Smith's return to Pitti Uomo—the prestigious menswear trade show in Florence, Italy—in 2025 signals a renewed focus on sartorial heritage and influence within the global menswear community.

British Fashion Council: Sir Paul Smith has been a long-time supporter and advisor to the British Fashion Council, championing British design talent and manufacturing.

Awards & Recognition:

• Royal Designer for Industry (1991)
• Knight Bachelor (2000) for services to British fashion
• Multiple honorary doctorates from UK universities
• Lifetime achievement awards from fashion institutions globally

Celebrity & Cultural Visibility

Unlike brands that rely heavily on paid celebrity ambassadors, Paul Smith's cultural presence is built on organic adoption by musicians, actors, and creative professionals who appreciate the brand's aesthetic independence:

Music:

• David Bowie (long-time wearer)
• Paul Weller (mod icon and British music legend)
• Noel Gallagher (Oasis)
• Various contemporary musicians across genres

Cultural Significance: Paul Smith represents a specific archetype in menswear: the independent creative professional who values quality and detail but rejects ostentation.

5 | Top Picks & Fit — Expert Guidance

For universal sizing guidance and how to measure yourself, see our Master Size Guide. Below are Paul Smith's official size charts and product-specific fit notes.

Comprehensive Sizing Chart

Note: Paul Smith sizing can vary slightly between collections (mainline vs. PS by Paul Smith). Always check specific garment measurements when available.

Fit Guidance by Product Category

Shirts (Dress & Casual):

• Run true to size for a tailored, trim fit
• Cut close through chest and waist with appropriate ease
• Sleeve length designed for proper cuff break at wrist
• Recommendation: Size up if you prefer a more relaxed fit or have broader shoulders/chest

Polos:

• Modern slim fit through body
• Sized for wearing untucked or tucked
• Collar designed to hold shape without stiffness
• Recommendation: True to size for intended fit; size up for relaxed comfort

Knitwear (Sweaters, Cardigans):

• True to size with room for layering over shirt
• Fine-gauge knits fit closer; chunky knits more relaxed
• Merino pieces may relax slightly with wear
• Recommendation: Take your normal size for intended drape

Outerwear (Jackets, Coats, Blazers):

• Designed to accommodate layering (shirt + sweater typically)
• Sleeves articulated for forward arm movement
• Tailored jackets closer to body; casual jackets more relaxed
• Recommendation: Try with your typical layers underneath to test fit

Trousers & Chinos:

• Sized by true waist measurement (not jean size)
• Modern cuts tend toward tapered leg
• Rise varies by style (classic vs. contemporary)
• Recommendation: Measure your natural waist (belly button level) and size accordingly

Denim:

• Follows standard denim sizing (may differ from trouser sizing)
• Selvedge styles may have minimal stretch
• Some contemporary cuts include 2% elastane
• Recommendation: Try in-store if possible; denim fit is highly personal

Footwear:

• Runs true to UK sizing
• European construction tends to be narrower than US or athletic brands
• Leather shoes may require break-in period
• Recommendation: If between sizes or have wider feet, size up

OD's Top Paul Smith Picks

1. Signature Stripe Detail Shirts

Why OD's Rates It: The quintessential Paul Smith piece—classic shirting with unexpected Signature Stripe accents on interior plackets or cuffs. Italian cotton with 100-140s thread count ensures durability and drape.

2. Paul Smith Loves Barbour Waxed Jacket

Why OD's Rates It: British heritage outerwear meets playful sophistication. Traditional waxed cotton with Signature Stripe patchwork panels—functional and collectible.

3. Merino Wool Knitwear

Why OD's Rates It: Fine-gauge merino in classic silhouettes with subtle Signature Stripe chest details. Versatile layering pieces that work for decades, not seasons.

4. Tailored Blazers

Why OD's Rates It: Full-canvas construction with unexpected lining details. British tailoring proportions that balance sharp structure with comfortable ease.

5. Japanese Selvedge Denim

Why OD's Rates It: Premium Japanese denim with Paul Smith's attention to hardware and finishing details. Ages beautifully with proper care.

6 | Paul Smith-Specific Care Notes

For universal care rules (washing temperature, detergent types, storage), see our Master Care Guide. Below are material-specific instructions unique to Paul Smith garments.

Signature Stripe Detail Care

Paul Smith's iconic Signature Stripe appears as printed, embroidered, or woven details throughout collections. These accents require specific attention:

• Turn garments inside-out before washing to protect stripe details
• Never iron directly over printed or embroidered stripes—iron from reverse side
• Avoid harsh detergents or bleach which fade stripe colors
• Signature Stripe edge painting (found on leather goods) can chip if scraped—handle carefully

Why this matters: The Signature Stripe is Paul Smith's visual DNA. Proper care preserves these details for the garment's lifetime.

Waxed Cotton Care (Paul Smith Loves Barbour)

The Paul Smith Loves Barbour collaboration features traditional waxed cotton requiring specialized maintenance:

Cleaning Protocol:

• Never machine wash—wax coating will strip away
• For light dirt: wipe with cold damp cloth only
• For mud or heavy soiling: allow to dry completely, brush off with stiff brush, then wipe
• Avoid hot water, detergents, and any heat sources during cleaning

Re-Waxing (Annual Maintenance):

Paul Smith/Barbour waxed jackets need re-proofing every 12-18 months:

1. Clean jacket thoroughly and allow to dry 48 hours
2. Use Barbour Thornproof Dressing or equivalent wax compound
3. Hang jacket in warm room (20-25°C) for 30 minutes before application
4. Apply wax with cloth in circular motions, focusing on seams and high-wear areas
5. Hang for 24 hours in warm, ventilated space to allow wax absorption

Paul Smith Specific Detail: The Signature Stripe patchwork panels on Barbour collaboration pieces are permanent—they will not run or bleed during cleaning.

High-Count Cotton Shirting Care

Paul Smith uses Italian and British cotton shirting with thread counts between 100-140s. These premium fabrics require careful handling:

• Button all closures before washing to prevent stress on buttonholes
• Separate whites from colours for first 3-5 washes to prevent dye transfer
• Iron while slightly damp at medium heat (150-170°C)
• Press collar from points inward; never iron over collar stays

Paul Smith Specific Detail: The brand's Signature Stripe accents (often printed on interior plackets or cuffs) require inside-out ironing. Direct heat causes colour degradation.

Stretch Cotton & Technical Fabrics

Contemporary Paul Smith casualwear often includes elastane (2-3%) for comfort and technical finishes for performance.

Critical Rule: Never use fabric softener. Fabric softener coats elastane fibers, permanently reducing stretch and causing premature breakdown.

Paul Smith Specific Detail: Technical outerwear with water-repellent coatings should be re-treated annually with PFC-free DWR spray following product instructions.

Leather Accessories Care

Paul Smith leather goods (belts, wallets, bags) use LWG-certified leather that improves with age when properly maintained.

Paul Smith Specific Detail: Items with Signature Stripe edge painting (found on wallet edges and belt edges) require careful handling—edge paint can chip if scraped against hard surfaces.

The Paul Smith Treatment—Repair Service

The brand operates in-house repair services for garments purchased through official channels:

• Button replacement (including finding discontinued button styles)
• Zipper repair or replacement
• Hem adjustments and re-tailoring
• Interior lining repairs
• Pocket reinforcement

Access: Contact Paul Smith flagship stores or OD's Designer Clothing for guidance on submitting items for repair.

7 | Sustainability & Authenticity

The Paul Smith Sustainability Framework

Paul Smith's approach to sustainability is organized around four core pillars: Responsible Sourcing, Community, Emissions Reduction, and Circularity & Aftercare.

1. Responsible Sourcing & Materials

Current Commitments:

• Transition to 100% organic or recycled cotton (timeline: ongoing implementation)
• Elimination of virgin polyester in favour of recycled alternatives
• Leather sourcing from tanneries certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG)
• Wool traceability programs ensuring animal welfare standards
• PFC-free water-repellent treatments across outerwear categories

Supply Chain Standards:

• Adherence to ETI Base Code (Ethical Trading Initiative)
• Regular supplier audits for labor rights and environmental compliance
• Modern Slavery Act transparency statement published annually

2. Community & People

Workforce Commitments:

• Fair wage compliance across all manufacturing partners
• Gender diversity in leadership (ongoing targets)
• Support for UK textile manufacturing where viable
• Investment in training and skills development

3. Emissions Reduction

Operational Goals:

• Reduction in Scope 1 & 2 emissions from owned operations
• Investment in renewable energy for flagship stores and offices
• Sustainable logistics including electric vehicle fleets where possible
• Packaging reduction and transition to recyclable/biodegradable materials

4. Circularity & Aftercare

This represents Paul Smith's strongest sustainability differentiator:

Repair & Restore Program: The brand's in-house repair service extends garment life significantly. By making repairs accessible and encouraging customers to maintain rather than replace garments, Paul Smith reduces consumption at the individual level.

Design for Longevity:

• Timeless aesthetic that doesn't date
• Quality construction that withstands years of wear
• Classic silhouettes that transcend trend cycles
• Repairability integrated into garment construction

OD's Authenticity Guarantee

• ✅ OD's is an authorized UK Paul Smith retailer
• ✅ Every Paul Smith piece at OD's Designer Clothing is sourced through official UK distribution channels
• ✅ All items include original tags, care labels, and packaging
• ✅ Full manufacturer warranty support
• ✅ This does not affect your statutory rights under UK consumer law

Making a Warranty Claim

If you purchase from OD's and believe you have a warranty-eligible issue:

1. Contact OD's first with proof of purchase and photos
2. OD's will assess whether issue appears warranty-eligible
3. OD's handles claims end-to-end—we manage the process with Paul Smith on your behalf

Our aftercare services—including access to The Paul Smith Treatment repair service, warranty support, and authenticity verification—apply exclusively to items purchased directly from OD's.

8 | FAQs — Paul Smith-Specific Intelligence

For universal sizing, care, and store policy FAQs, see our Master FAQ Guide. Below are brand-specific questions about Paul Smith.

Are your Paul Smith products 100% authentic?

Yes. Every Paul Smith piece at OD's Designer Clothing is sourced through official UK distribution channels and comes with full authentication. We're an authorized retailer with direct relationships to the brand.

Does Paul Smith clothing run true to size?

Paul Smith follows European sizing with a modern, trim fit. Most customers find the sizing true to their usual European size, but the fit is more tailored than American or British high-street brands. If you prefer more room or are between sizes, we recommend sizing up.

What is the Paul Smith Loves Barbour collection?

It's a collaborative capsule collection launched in Autumn/Winter 2024/25 that reinterprets Barbour's classic waxed cotton outerwear with Paul Smith's Signature Stripe details and playful design elements. OD's stocks key pieces from this collaboration.

Does Paul Smith offer repair services?

Yes. Paul Smith operates "The Paul Smith Treatment" repair service for items purchased through official channels. Services include button replacement, zipper repair, hem adjustments, and re-tailoring. Contact OD's for guidance on accessing these services.

How do I care for my Paul Smith Loves Barbour waxed jacket?

Waxed cotton requires specialized care. Never machine wash—the wax coating will strip away. For cleaning, wipe with a cold damp cloth or brush off dried mud. Re-wax annually using Barbour Thornproof Dressing. The Signature Stripe patchwork panels are permanent and won't bleed.

Are Paul Smith shoes narrow?

Paul Smith footwear uses European lasts which tend to be slightly narrower than American or athletic shoe brands. If you have wider feet or are between sizes, size up.

What's the difference between mainline Paul Smith and PS by Paul Smith?

Mainline Paul Smith represents the core collection—sophisticated tailoring, premium materials (Italian cotton, British wool), and the brand's signature "classic with a twist" aesthetic. PS by Paul Smith is the contemporary diffusion line with more accessible pricing and younger demographic focus.

Is Paul Smith a sustainable brand?

Paul Smith has made commitments to responsible sourcing, organic materials, and garment longevity through its repair service and design philosophy. The brand's emphasis on quality and repairability aligns with sustainable consumption principles.

Are Paul Smith products made in the UK?

Some pieces (typically limited editions or special collaborations) are UK-made, but the majority of production occurs in Italy, Portugal, Turkey, and other European countries known for textile expertise.

9 | Why OD's × Paul Smith — Independent Meets Independent

Paul Smith represents creative independence in an industry dominated by conglomerates. At OD's Designer Clothing, we mirror that philosophy—an independent retailer championing independent design.

What Sets OD's Apart:

• ✓ Curated British Menswear Expertise — We stock Paul Smith Menswear exclusively, focusing on the core vocabulary: British tailoring with personality, Signature Stripe pieces, and collaborations like Paul Smith Loves Barbour
• ✓ Fit Knowledge Beyond Size Charts — Our team understands how mainline Paul Smith fits differently than PS by Paul Smith, which collections run slimmer, and when to size up for layering
• ✓ Authentication & Brand Service Access — Direct sourcing through official channels, guidance on The Paul Smith Treatment repair service, and support navigating collaboration-specific care
• ✓ Long-Term Garment Care Partnerships — Material-specific care guidance for waxed cotton, high-count shirting, and Signature Stripe details to help your pieces last 10+ years
• ✓ Supporting Independent Design — When you buy Paul Smith from OD's, you're supporting two independent businesses that prioritize craft over quarterly profits

Our Philosophy:

British tailoring is an investment in longevity, not seasonal consumption. Your Paul Smith jacket should last 10+ years with proper care. We're invested in helping you achieve that, not selling you a replacement in two seasons.

Paul Smith celebrates creative individuality. OD's celebrates retail expertise. Together, that's why discerning customers choose us for British menswear that matters.