Cotton -- The World's Favourite Natural Fibre
Cotton is the fibre most of us wear every day -- soft, breathable and forgiving. But not all cotton is equal: the length of the fibre, how it is spun and how it is finished make the difference between a tee that pills in a month and a shirt that lasts for years. This guide explains the grades of cotton, the treatments that change how it feels and performs, and how to choose and care for it. It links through to the wider fabric types overview and the care hub.
Cotton Grades
Staple Length
Why the length of the cotton fibre decides how good the cloth feels.
What it means
Staple is the length of the individual cotton fibre. Longer staples spin into smoother, stronger, finer yarn with fewer loose ends, so the cloth feels softer, resists pilling and lasts longer. Short-staple cotton is cheaper but coarser and wears faster.
Why it matters
Staple length is the single biggest quality signal in cotton. It is why premium long-staple cottons command a premium -- they simply feel better and outlast ordinary cotton, wash after wash.
Egyptian Cotton
The benchmark long-staple cotton, known for softness and strength.
What it is
Egyptian cotton is grown in the Nile region and famed for its extra-long staple, which spins into exceptionally soft, strong, lustrous yarn. It is a byword for luxury in shirting and bedding.
Why it matters
The long fibre means a smoother surface, better drape and real durability. Genuine Egyptian cotton is a mark of quality -- though the name is sometimes misused, so it pays to buy from trusted brands.
Pima & Supima Cotton
American long-staple cotton rivalling Egyptian for quality.
What it is
Pima cotton is a long-staple cotton grown mainly in the US, Peru and Australia. Supima is the trademarked, certified American Pima. Both deliver the softness, strength and colour retention of a top-grade long-staple fibre.
Why it matters
Pima offers Egyptian-level quality with a certified supply chain in the case of Supima. For tees, polos and shirts, it means a soft hand that survives repeated washing without going rough.
Organic Cotton
Cotton grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilisers.
What it is
Organic cotton is grown to certified standards without synthetic pesticides, fertilisers or GM seed, using methods that protect soil and water. The fibre itself feels much like conventional cotton of the same staple.
Why it matters
The difference is environmental and ethical rather than tactile. For shoppers who care about how a fibre is grown, certified organic cotton offers a cleaner conscience without sacrificing comfort.
Treatments & Finishes
Mercerised Cotton
A treatment that adds sheen, strength and better dye uptake.
What it is
Mercerisation treats cotton yarn under tension in a caustic solution, which swells the fibre to give a smooth, lustrous surface, greater strength and richer, more colourfast dyeing.
Why it matters
Mercerised cotton -- and the very fine lisle version -- looks more refined and holds colour better, which is why it appears in quality polos and fine-gauge knitwear from makers like Gran Sasso.
Waxed Cotton
Cotton treated with wax for weatherproof, hard-wearing outerwear.
What it is
Waxed cotton is dense cotton impregnated with wax to make it water-repellent and wind-resistant while keeping the character of a natural cloth. It is the signature material of British heritage jackets.
Why it matters
Waxed cotton ages into a unique patina and can be re-proofed for life -- see British Millerain and the Belstaff care guide. Belstaff built its name on it; the Belstaff jackets collection shows it in action.
Cotton Weight & GSM
How fabric weight changes the feel and use of a cotton garment.
What it means
Cotton cloth is measured in GSM (grams per square metre). A light GSM gives a cool, summery tee; a heavy GSM gives a substantial, structured jersey or overshirt that holds its shape.
Why it matters
Weight tells you how a cotton garment will feel and last. A heavyweight tee feels premium and wears longer; a lightweight one is cooler but more delicate. Matching weight to use is key to satisfaction.
Choosing & Caring
Choosing Quality Cotton
What to look and feel for when buying cotton garments.
What to look for
Feel for softness and a smooth, even surface; check the label for long-staple cottons like Pima or Egyptian; and look at the weight for the use you have in mind. Tight, even stitching and a substantial hand signal quality.
Why it matters
Good cotton is a long-term investment. A well-made long-staple cotton shirt or tee outlasts several cheap ones and looks better the whole time, so knowing the signs of quality pays for itself.
Caring for Cotton
Washing, drying and ironing cotton to keep it at its best.
How to do it
Wash cotton at a moderate temperature, separate colours, and avoid overloading. Reduce shrinkage by washing cooler and air-drying or tumbling low. Iron while slightly damp for a crisp finish. Waxed cotton is a special case -- wipe clean and re-proof, never machine wash.
Why it matters
Cotton is forgiving but not indestructible -- hot washes shrink it and harsh drying weakens the fibre. A little care keeps colour, shape and softness; the clothing care guide has the full method.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best quality cotton?
The best cottons are long-staple varieties, because the longer fibre spins into softer, stronger, smoother yarn. Egyptian cotton and Pima (or certified Supima) are the benchmarks for quality, valued for softness, durability and colour retention. Mercerised cotton adds extra sheen and strength. Staple length, not just the brand name, is the real measure of cotton quality.
What is the difference between Egyptian and Pima cotton?
Both are premium long-staple cottons offering similar softness, strength and luxury. Egyptian cotton is grown in the Nile region and has the longest heritage as a luxury fibre, while Pima is grown mainly in the US, Peru and Australia, with Supima being the certified American version. In practice their quality is comparable; the main differences are origin and certified supply chain.
What is waxed cotton and why is it used for jackets?
Waxed cotton is dense cotton fabric impregnated with wax to make it water-repellent and wind-resistant while keeping a natural look and feel. It is used for heritage outerwear like Belstaff jackets because it is hard-wearing, weatherproof and develops a unique patina with age. Unlike synthetic waterproofs, it can be re-proofed indefinitely, so a good waxed jacket can last decades.
Does cotton shrink and how do I stop it?
Cotton can shrink, especially the first wash, when heat causes the fibres to contract. To minimise shrinkage, wash at a cooler temperature, avoid hot tumble-drying, and air-dry where possible. Pre-shrunk and sanforised cottons are treated to resist this. Following the care label is the simplest way to keep a cotton garment its original size.
Is organic cotton better than regular cotton?
Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilisers or GM seed, using methods kinder to soil and water, so the benefit is mainly environmental and ethical rather than a difference you can feel. The fibre quality depends on staple length just like conventional cotton. If sustainability matters to you, certified organic cotton is a good choice without giving up comfort.