Fabric Care -- Make Every Garment Last Longer
Good clothes are an investment, and how you care for them decides whether that investment lasts one season or ten. Most premature wear -- shrinking, felting, fading, bobbling, stretching -- comes down to washing and drying the wrong way for the fibre. This guide explains how to read a care label, how to wash and dry each main fabric, how to handle special materials like wool, waxed cotton and leather, and how to store and revive your clothes. It pulls together the care advice from across the whole Fabrics Knowledge Centre and links to the full clothing care guide.
Washing & Drying
Reading Care Symbols
Decoding the little symbols that tell you how to wash.
What they mean
The care label uses standard symbols for washing (the tub), bleaching (triangle), drying (square), ironing (iron) and professional cleaning (circle). A number or dots gives the temperature; a bar or cross underneath means be gentle or do not do it at all.
Why it matters
The care label is the manufacturer's honest instruction for keeping a garment in shape. Learning the symbols takes minutes and saves a lifetime of shrunk jumpers and faded shirts -- it is the foundation of all fabric care.
Washing Cotton & Everyday Fabrics
Getting cottons and blends clean without shrinking them.
How to do it
Wash cotton and cotton blends at a moderate temperature, separate colours from whites, turn prints and dark colours inside out, and avoid overloading the drum. Cooler washes cut shrinkage and fading; a non-bio detergent is gentler on fibres and skin.
Why it matters
Cotton is forgiving but not indestructible -- hot washes shrink it and harsh cycles wear it out. Sensible washing keeps colour, shape and softness for years; sanforised cottons resist shrinking, but cool care still helps everything last.
Drying Without Damage
Why how you dry matters as much as how you wash.
How to do it
Air-dry where you can -- it is gentlest on every fibre. If you tumble dry, use a low heat and remove items slightly damp. Reshape knitwear and dry it flat; hang shirts to cut ironing; never tumble dry wool, silk or anything the label forbids.
Why it matters
High heat is the single biggest cause of shrinkage and fibre damage. Gentle drying protects elastic recovery, colour and shape, and often saves ironing too -- making it one of the easiest wins in fabric care.
Caring for Special Fabrics
Caring for Wool & Cashmere
Keeping knitwear soft, sized and free of moths.
How to do it
Hand wash or use a wool cycle in cool water with wool-safe detergent, never wring or tumble dry, and dry flat in shape. Fold knitwear rather than hanging it, and store it clean to deter moths. Cashmere especially wants this gentle routine.
Why it matters
Heat and agitation felt and shrink wool irreversibly, and moths love dirty fibres. Correct care keeps wool and cashmere soft and in shape for many years -- look for the Woolmark for genuine quality wool worth caring for.
Caring for Waxed Cotton
Cleaning and re-proofing waxed jackets the right way.
How to do it
Never machine wash or dry-clean waxed cotton -- it strips the wax. Wipe clean with cold water and a sponge, let it dry naturally, and re-proof with a wax dressing when it stops beading water, warming the wax so it spreads evenly into the cloth.
Why it matters
Waxed cotton is built to be maintained, not replaced. Correct cleaning and re-proofing keep it weatherproof and let it age into a unique patina -- the Belstaff care guide walks through it step by step.
Caring for Leather & Suede
Keeping leather supple and protecting suede from marks.
How to do it
Wipe leather clean, condition it occasionally to stop it drying and cracking, and let it dry naturally away from direct heat. Suede needs a soft brush and a suede protector; treat both against water before wear and blot spills quickly rather than rubbing.
Why it matters
Leather and suede reward care with years of service and a deepening patina, but neglect dries, cracks and stains them permanently. The leather jacket care guide has the full routine.
Storing, Repairing & Reviving
Storing Clothes Properly
Folding, hanging and protecting garments out of season.
How to do it
Hang structured items like shirts and tailoring on good hangers; fold knitwear and heavy items so they do not stretch. Store everything clean, in a cool, dry, dark place, and protect wool and cashmere from moths with cedar or lavender. Use breathable covers, not plastic.
Why it matters
Bad storage stretches, creases, fades and exposes clothes to moths and damp. A little thought in how you put garments away keeps them ready to wear and in shape, especially for seasonal and special pieces.
Treating Stains & Spills
Acting fast and correctly to save a garment.
How to do it
Blot spills straight away rather than rubbing, work from the outside of the stain inward, and treat with the right approach for the fibre and the stain before it sets. Test any product on a hidden area first, and avoid heat until the stain is gone, as it can fix it permanently.
Why it matters
Most stains are beatable if you act quickly and correctly, but the wrong move -- rubbing, heat, harsh chemicals on delicate cloth -- sets them for good. Knowing the basics turns a potential write-off back into a wearable garment.
Repairing & Reviving Garments
Small fixes that extend a garment's life for years.
How to do it
De-pill knitwear gently with a comb or fabric shaver, re-proof tired water finishes (see Nikwax), sew loose buttons and small seams promptly, and steam out creases rather than over-ironing. A good tailor can fix more than you think.
Why it matters
A few minutes of repair and reviving keeps clothes looking new and out of landfill. It is the most sustainable and economical part of fabric care -- the difference between replacing a garment and wearing it for another decade.
Frequently asked questions
How do I read the symbols on a clothing care label?
Care labels use standard international symbols. The tub shape covers washing (a number gives the maximum temperature, a hand means hand wash, a cross means do not wash). A triangle covers bleaching, a square covers drying (a circle inside means tumble dry, dots show heat level), an iron shape shows ironing temperature by dots, and a circle covers professional dry cleaning. A bar under a symbol means be gentle; a cross through it means do not do it at all.
What temperature should I wash my clothes at?
For most everyday cottons and blends, a cool to moderate wash (around 30C) cleans well while cutting shrinkage, fading and energy use. Heavily soiled items or towels and bedding can take a warmer wash. Delicates, wool and silk need cold or dedicated gentle cycles. Always follow the care label's maximum temperature -- washing cooler than the limit is fine and usually kinder to the fabric.
How do I wash wool without shrinking or felting it?
Wash wool gently in cool water, either by hand or on a dedicated wool cycle, with a wool-safe detergent. Never wring, scrub or tumble dry it, as heat and agitation cause wool to felt and shrink permanently. Gently squeeze out water, reshape the garment and dry it flat away from direct heat. Fold wool to store rather than hanging, and keep it clean to deter moths.
Can I machine wash a waxed cotton jacket?
No -- never machine wash, tumble dry or dry-clean waxed cotton, as all of these strip the wax that makes it weatherproof. Instead, wipe it clean with cold water and a sponge, and let it dry naturally. When it stops beading water, re-proof it with a wax dressing, warming the wax so it works evenly into the fabric. Cared for this way, a waxed jacket can last for decades.
How do I stop my knitwear from bobbling and stretching?
Bobbling (pilling) comes from abrasion, so wash knitwear inside out on a gentle, cool cycle and remove existing bobbles carefully with a fabric comb or shaver. To avoid stretching, fold knitwear to store rather than hanging it, and dry it flat in shape rather than on a hanger. Choosing finer, two-ply yarns in the first place also dramatically reduces both problems.