Top Construction

Top construction detail

Top Construction

Seams, hems, closures and finishes explained

OD's Designer Clothing · Knowledge Hubs

The way a top is put together decides how it fits, moves and lasts. This hub explains the construction terms so you can judge quality from seams to finish. Browse women's tops and blouses (/collections/womens-tops-blouses).

Seams and shaping

Set-In Sleeve

A sleeve stitched into a rounded armhole seam.

What it does

A set-in sleeve is sewn into a curved armhole so it sits neatly on the shoulder, the mark of a tailored top.

Why it matters

It gives a clean, structured shoulder line. Browse women's tops and blouses (/collections/womens-tops-blouses).

Raglan Sleeve

A sleeve seam running diagonally to the neck.

What it does

A raglan sleeve joins the body with a diagonal seam from underarm to neck, giving easy movement and a sporty look.

Why it matters

It allows a relaxed, comfortable shoulder.

Bust Darts

Stitched folds that shape a top to the bust.

What it does

Bust darts take in fabric to curve a flat top around the bust for a fitted, tailored shape.

Why it matters

Well-placed darts give a flattering fit.

Side Seams and Shaping

Seams down the sides that curve the body.

What it does

Shaped side seams nip in at the waist to give a fitted top its shape rather than hanging straight.

Why it matters

They define the waist on a fitted top.

Edges and closures

Hem Finish

The way the bottom edge is turned and secured.

What it does

The hem finish, from a twin-needle turn to a rolled or lettuce edge, sets how neat and durable the bottom of the top is.

Why it matters

A tidy, even hem signals quality. Browse women's t-shirts and vests (/collections/womens-t-shirts-vests).

Neckline Finish

How the neckline edge is bound or turned.

What it does

A neckline is finished with a ribbed band, a bias binding or a turned facing to hold its shape and lie flat.

Why it matters

A clean neckline keeps its shape wash after wash.

Button Closure

Buttons and a placket that open the front.

What it does

A button closure runs down a reinforced placket, letting a shirt or blouse open fully or partly.

Why it matters

Neat, evenly spaced buttons show careful making.

Lining

An inner layer for sheer or delicate tops.

What it does

A lining or built-in cami backs sheer chiffon and lace tops so they are not see-through and feel comfortable.

Why it matters

It makes delicate fabrics wearable and neat.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a set-in and a raglan sleeve?

A set-in sleeve is sewn into a rounded armhole seam that sits on the edge of the shoulder, giving a tailored, structured line. A raglan sleeve joins with a diagonal seam running from the underarm to the neck, giving a sportier look and easier movement.

Why do some tops have bust darts?

Bust darts are stitched folds that take in fabric to curve a flat top around the bust. They turn a straight piece of cloth into a shaped, fitted top that follows the body, giving a more flattering and tailored fit than a top with no shaping.

How can I tell if a top is well made?

Look for neat, even seams, a tidy hem, a neckline that lies flat, and evenly spaced, secure buttons. On sheer or delicate tops, a lining or built-in cami is a good sign. These details show careful construction and usually mean the top will last and keep its shape.

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