Remove Pilling Knitwear
Those small balls of fluff that appear on the surface of your favourite knitwear are called pills. They are not a sign of low-quality fabric — in fact, some of the world's most expensive knits can develop pills. They are a normal product of friction and fibre type, and they are entirely reversible if you use the right approach.
This guide explains why pilling happens, which fabrics are most prone to it, and the correct methods for removing it without damaging your knitwear.
1 | What Causes Pilling?
Pilling occurs when short, loose fibres on the surface of a fabric become entangled through friction. As you wear a knit — particularly at points of friction like the underarms, sides of the body where your arms rub, and the cuffs — fibres work loose from the yarn structure and tangle into small balls anchored to the surface.
The pills themselves are not new fibres appearing from nowhere. They are surface fibres that have been mechanically loosened and twisted together by repeated friction. The shorter the fibres in the yarn, the more easily this happens — because short fibres have more free ends available to tangle.
The Three Factors That Cause Pilling
- Friction — where garment rubs against itself or other surfaces (bags, seat backs, coat linings)
- Short fibre length — shorter staple fibres have more free ends to escape and tangle
- Loose yarn twist — loosely spun yarn releases fibres more easily than tightly spun yarn
Pilling does not mean the garment is wearing out — the knit structure beneath the surface pills is usually entirely intact. Removing pills restores the surface appearance without affecting the garment's longevity.
2 | Which Fabrics Pill Most?
Not all fibres pill equally. The fibre length, twist, and structure all play a role — and the type of knit construction affects how quickly surface fibres work loose.
Cotton-blend knitwear
High pilling tendency. Cotton has a relatively short staple length and blending it with synthetic fibres (polyester, acrylic) increases pilling because the synthetic fibres are strong enough to hold pills to the surface rather than allowing them to brush off naturally.
Acrylic knitwear
High pilling tendency. Acrylic fibres are strong but short, and because the pills anchor firmly to strong synthetic fibres they do not shed naturally. Budget knitwear that pills heavily is typically high-acrylic content.
Pure merino wool
Lower pilling tendency than blends. Merino fibres are naturally fine, long, and have a slightly scaly surface that grips together rather than tangling into balls. High-quality superfine merino knits pill less than cotton-blend equivalents.
Cashmere
Pills more than merino, particularly in early wear. Cashmere fibres are fine but short. Initial pilling is normal and typically reduces after the first few wears as loose surface fibres are shed. Remove pills gently — do not pull.
The Bottom Line on Blends
Blends of natural and synthetic fibres often pill more than pure natural fibres because synthetic fibres are strong enough to hold pills firmly to the surface rather than letting them shed. A 100% merino sweater will generally pill less over time than a 60% merino / 40% polyester equivalent.
3 | How to Prevent Pilling
Prevention is significantly easier than removal. The key is reducing the friction that causes fibres to entangle in the first place.
- Wash knitwear inside out. This protects the outer surface — the side you see — from mechanical agitation inside the drum. Friction during washing is a primary driver of early pilling.
- Use a mesh laundry bag. Place knitwear inside a mesh wash bag before machine washing. This reduces friction between the garment and the drum, and between the garment and other items in the load.
- Use a gentle or hand-wash cycle. The less mechanical agitation, the fewer fibres are loosened. A hand-wash cycle at 30°C is ideal for most knitwear.
- Use a specialist wool or knitwear detergent. Standard biological detergents contain enzymes that attack protein fibres (wool, cashmere). Use a dedicated wool wash liquid — it is gentler on the fibre structure and reduces mechanical damage during washing.
- Be aware of bag friction. Wearing a shoulder bag over a knit creates sustained friction at the contact point. This is one of the most common causes of localised pilling on knitwear — the shoulder, side, and underarm areas.
- Avoid rough coat linings. Wearing a fine knitwear under a coat with an abrasive lining causes the same friction problem. A smooth silk or satin lining is much kinder to knitwear than a polyester brushed lining.
4 | How to Remove Pills
Once pills have formed, you have three practical options. The fabric shaver is the best all-round solution. The other two are worth knowing for specific situations.
Method 1: Fabric Shaver (Best Option)
A fabric shaver — also called a lint shaver or jumper shaver — is a small electric device with a rotating blade behind a perforated guard. The guard catches pills, the blade cuts them off at the surface, and the loosened fluff is collected in a small chamber.
How to Use a Fabric Shaver Correctly
- Lay the garment flat on a hard surface — do not hold it in the air
- Work in gentle circular motions or in the direction of the knit structure
- Do not press hard — let the device do the work
- Work slowly across the fabric; rushing causes snags
- Empty the collection chamber regularly
- Start on a less visible area if you are using a fabric shaver for the first time
Fabric shavers are inexpensive (£8–20), available widely, and will extend the life of good knitwear for years. They are the single most useful knitwear care tool you can own.
Method 2: Lint Roller or Tape
For very light, early-stage pilling — small, loosely attached pills — a sticky lint roller can lift them from the surface without a shaver. This works best on fine knits and is much gentler than any cutting method. It will not remove well-established pills.
Method 3: Razor Blade (Use With Caution)
A disposable razor can shave pills from robust, tightly-knit fabrics — a method used by dry cleaners and tailors. However, it carries real risk on fine or loosely woven knitwear: a single moment of too much pressure can cut through the yarn and create a hole. Only use this method on thick, robust knits, held completely taut against a flat surface, with extremely light strokes.
What Not to Do
Never pull pills off with your fingers. Pulling puts tension on the surrounding yarn, stretching it and potentially pulling loops out of the knit structure. Always cut or shave — never pull.
5 | Gran Sasso & Anti-Pilling Quality
Gran Sasso is an Italian knitwear house founded in Pescara in 1952. They are one of the few brands in the world that still knit entirely in Italy, using raw materials sourced from the finest producers — including Zegna Baruffa and Loro Piana yarns.
The reason Gran Sasso knitwear pills less than most comparably priced knitwear is not marketing — it is construction. They use long-staple yarns (longer fibres have fewer free ends), tight yarn twist, and high gauge knitting that creates a denser, more stable fabric surface with less fibre movement under friction.
Why Gran Sasso Construction Resists Pilling
- Long-staple merino and extra-fine wool yarns — fewer short fibre ends to tangle
- High twist yarn structure — fibres locked together, resist loosening under friction
- Fine gauge knitting — tighter stitch density reduces surface fibre mobility
- Single-origin material sourcing — consistent fibre quality throughout the knit
This does not mean Gran Sasso knitwear never pills — all natural fibre knitwear can develop some surface pills under sustained friction. But the pills appear later, are finer, and remove more cleanly than on lower-construction knitwear.
Browse Gran Sasso at OD's
View the full Gran Sasso collection at OD's Designer Clothing — knitwear made in Italy, in stock at 44 Barrow Street, St Helens.
6 | Frequently Asked Questions
Does pilling mean the knitwear is poor quality?
Not necessarily. Even high-quality merino and cashmere knitwear develops some pilling, particularly in the early stages of wear as loose surface fibres are shed. What distinguishes quality construction is how quickly pilling appears, how pronounced it is, and how cleanly pills remove. Cheap acrylic knitwear tends to pill heavily and quickly; fine merino and well-constructed natural fibre knits pill less and more slowly.
Is it safe to use a fabric shaver on cashmere?
Yes, carefully. Use a fabric shaver on the lowest speed setting if available, hold the fabric completely flat and taut, and use light pressure with slow circular motions. Cashmere is a delicate fibre — work slowly and do not press hard. A fabric shaver is far safer than trying to pull pills off with your fingers or using a razor on cashmere.
Why does my new jumper pill so quickly?
New knitwear often pills more in the first few wears as the loosest surface fibres — those that were not fully anchored during knitting — work free and tangle. This initial shedding phase is normal and usually subsides after the first two or three washes. Remove the pills as they appear and the rate of new pill formation typically slows significantly after this initial period.
How do I wash knitwear to prevent pilling?
Turn the garment inside out, place it in a mesh laundry bag, and wash on a gentle or hand-wash cycle at 30°C or cooler with a wool-specific detergent. Avoid biological detergents. Do not tumble dry — lay flat to dry on a clean towel away from direct heat. These steps reduce the mechanical friction that causes fibres to loosen and tangle into pills.