Hoodie & Sweatshirt Construction
How a sweat is put together decides how it holds up and holds its shape. This hub explains the seams, sleeves and knits across our range, so a product name tells you the make before you inspect it. Browse men's hoodies and sweatshirts (/collections/mens-sweatshirts-jumpers-hoodies).
Sleeves and shoulders
Set-In Sleeve
A sleeve joined at the natural shoulder.
What defines it
A set-in sleeve is stitched to the body at the natural shoulder line, giving a defined, structured shape and a classic sweat look.
Who it suits
It suits a smart, structured fit. Browse men's hoodies and sweatshirts (/collections/mens-sweatshirts-jumpers-hoodies).
Raglan Sleeve
A sleeve seamed diagonally to the neck.
What defines it
A raglan sleeve runs in one piece from underarm to neckline with a diagonal seam, giving free movement and a sporty look.
Who it suits
It suits active wear and easy movement.
Dropped Shoulder
A shoulder seam that sits on the upper arm.
What defines it
A dropped shoulder sets the seam below the natural shoulder onto the arm, giving the loose, boxy line of oversized sweats.
Who it suits
It suits relaxed and streetwear cuts.
Knit and finish
Loopback Knit
The looped sweat knit behind most hoodies.
What defines it
A loopback knit leaves loops on the inner face; left as loops it stays light and breathable, or brushed for a warm fleece.
Who it suits
It suits soft, breathable everyday sweats.
Seams and joins
Flatlock Seams
Flat, low-bulk seams that resist chafing.
What defines it
Flatlock seams join panels with a flat, smooth stitch that lies against the body, reducing bulk and rubbing on active sweats.
Who it suits
It suits training and close-fitting styles.
Overlocked Seams
Enclosed seams that stop fabric fraying.
What defines it
Overlocked seams wrap the raw edges in thread so they cannot fray, the standard, durable join inside most sweats.
Who it suits
It suits durable, everyday construction. Browse women's hoodies and sweatshirts (/collections/womens-sweatshirts-hoodies).
Twin-Needle Stitching
Double topstitching for strength at stress points.
What defines it
Twin-needle stitching runs two parallel rows at the cuffs, hem and neck, adding strength and a clean finish where a sweat takes strain.
Who it suits
It suits hard-wearing, well-made sweats.
Knit and finish
Neck Gusset
A small reinforcing panel at the back neck.
What defines it
A neck gusset is a small V of fabric or tape at the back neck that reinforces the seam and keeps the collar from stretching out.
Who it suits
It suits sweats built to keep their shape.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between set-in and raglan sleeves?
A set-in sleeve is stitched to the body at the natural shoulder, giving a defined, structured shape that reads a little smarter. A raglan sleeve runs in one piece from the underarm up to the neckline with a diagonal seam, which frees the shoulder for movement and gives a sportier look. Set-in is the more classic sweat construction; raglan suits active styles.
How can I tell a well-made hoodie?
Turn it inside out and look at the seams. Neat overlocked or flatlock joins, twin-needle stitching at the cuffs, hem and neck, and a small gusset or taping at the back neck all signal quality. A firm ribbed collar that springs back, a dense knit that holds its shape, and tidy, even topstitching are good signs the sweat will last.
Why does the back of my sweatshirt neck stretch out?
Usually because there is no reinforcement at the back neck seam. A neck gusset or twill tape holds the collar in shape and stops it stretching when you pull the sweat on and off. Choosing a sweat with that reinforcement, a firm rib, and washing it inside out on a cool cycle will keep the neckline crisp for longer.