Tailored Construction Explained

In brief: Tailored construction is structured jacket making that uses a canvas interlining to give a garment three-dimensional shape and drape. Full canvas runs through the whole jacket front and is hand-basted to the cloth; half canvas covers the shoulders to mid-chest with fused lower sections; fused construction bonds a synthetic interlining throughout with heat adhesive. A pinch test below the lapel tells you which one you have.

What is tailored construction?

Tailored construction refers to the internal structure of a jacket, specifically the interlining that gives the garment its shape, drape and roll. The most important choice is between canvas and fused construction. A canvas interlining, typically a blend of horsehair, wool and linen, lets a jacket mould to the body and breathe, while a fused interlining uses a synthetic layer bonded to the cloth with heat-activated adhesive. The three common approaches, in descending order of craft and cost, are full canvas, half canvas and fully fused.

Full canvas, half canvas and fused

In full canvas construction the canvas extends through the entire jacket front and is hand-basted to the outer fabric. It conforms to your body shape over time and offers superior drape, breathability and longevity, often lasting 30 years or more with proper care, which is why it is standard for bespoke and premium made-to-measure. Half canvas runs the canvas from the shoulders to mid-chest, where structure matters most, with fused interlining lower down. It represents quality ready-to-wear and is the sensible balance of cost, structure and comfort for most buyers. Fully fused construction bonds a synthetic interlining to the cloth throughout with no canvas. It is lighter and cheaper and dominates entry-level tailoring, but it can delaminate, or bubble, if the adhesive breaks down through heat or dry cleaning, and it offers limited scope for alteration.

How to test jacket construction

Use the pinch test. Take the front panel of the jacket just below the lapel and pinch the outer cloth and lining apart between your fingers. In canvas construction you can feel three separate layers, the outer fabric, the canvas and the lining, moving independently. In fused construction the layers feel bonded together as one and cannot be separated. It is a quick, reliable way to judge how a jacket is built before you buy.