Corduroy Explained
In brief: Corduroy is a durable textile with raised vertical ridges called wales, made by weaving extra filling yarns into a base fabric and cutting the floats to form soft pile ridges. The wale count per inch defines the type: fine pinwale or needlecord for shirts, standard mid-wale for trousers and jackets, and wide-wale or elephant cord for outerwear. Typical weight is 280 to 365 GSM, usually in cotton, sometimes blended with polyester or elastane.
What is corduroy?
Corduroy is a woven cotton fabric instantly recognisable by its raised vertical ridges, known as wales. It is made by weaving extra filling yarns into a base cloth and then cutting the resulting floats so they stand up as soft, tufted ridges of pile. The name is often said to combine cord, meaning rope, with duroy, an old coarse English wool cloth. The result is a fabric that is durable, warm and tactile, with a distinctive corded surface that has made it a lasting favourite for trousers, jackets and shirts.
Understanding wales
The character of a corduroy is set by its wale count: the number of ridges per inch. The more wales per inch, the finer the cord. Pinwale or needlecord has roughly 16 to 23 wales per inch, a fine, smooth ridge suited to shirts and lighter garments. Standard or mid-wale corduroy runs around 10 to 14 wales per inch, the classic weight for trousers and jackets. Wide-wale, sometimes called elephant cord, has just 3 to 8 wales per inch, producing bold, chunky ridges favoured for heavier outerwear. Choosing a corduroy really comes down to choosing the wale.
Weight and composition
Corduroy is a substantial fabric, typically weighing in the region of 280 to 365 GSM, which gives it warmth and structure. The standard composition is 100 percent cotton, prized for its softness and the way it takes dye to give corduroy its characteristic rich, slightly heathered colours. Many modern corduroys blend in polyester for added durability and reduced shrinkage, or a small amount of elastane to add comfort stretch, which is especially welcome in trousers. The exact blend affects how the fabric drapes, stretches and holds up to repeated wear and washing.
Wearing and caring for corduroy
Corduroy is hard-wearing but its pile needs a little consideration to stay looking good. Washing inside out on a cool cycle helps protect the ridges and preserve the colour, and avoiding high heat reduces the risk of shrinkage in cotton-rich versions. The pile can flatten with heavy wear at points like the knees and seat, which is part of corduroy's lived-in character, and gentle brushing can help lift it. With its warmth, durability and texture, corduroy is a natural choice for autumn and winter wardrobes, ageing into a comfortable, characterful fabric over time.
Corduroy at OD's Designer Clothing
At OD's Designer Clothing we stock corduroy pieces from premium labels, including trousers from brands such as Jacob Cohen chosen for the quality of their cloth. Knowing your wales helps you pick the right weight, from fine needlecord shirts to robust mid-wale trousers. We offer next-day delivery and free click and collect, and customers in the North West are welcome to feel the fabric in person at our St Helens store.