Cashmere Grading Explained
In brief: Cashmere grading classifies fibre quality by diameter, measured in microns, and length. The finer and longer the fibre, the softer, stronger and more durable the yarn. Grade A is the finest at 14 to 16.5 microns and 34 to 40mm long, used for luxury knitwear. Grade B and Grade C are progressively coarser. Each cashmere goat yields only around 150 to 200g of usable undercoat a year, which is why the best cashmere is so prized.
What is cashmere grading?
Cashmere grading is the system used to classify the quality of cashmere fibre, and it explains why two jumpers both labelled cashmere can feel completely different. The grade is determined mainly by two measurements: the diameter of the fibre, given in microns, and its length. The finer the diameter and the longer the staple, the softer, stronger and more durable the resulting yarn. For context, a human hair measures roughly 50 to 100 microns across, while fine cashmere is well under 20 microns, which is what gives it that extraordinary lightness and softness.
The cashmere grades
Cashmere is generally sorted into three grades. Grade A is the finest, measuring around 14 to 16.5 microns in diameter with a fibre length of 34 to 40mm, prized for supreme softness and reserved for luxury knitwear. Grade B sits in the middle at roughly 16 to 19 microns and about 34mm long, offering good softness for mid-range apparel. Grade C is the coarsest at around 19 to 30 microns and about 28mm in length, better suited to heavier outerwear and blankets than to next-to-skin knitwear. The grade has a direct effect on softness, durability and price.
Why fineness and length matter
The two grading measurements are not just numbers; they shape how a garment feels and lasts. A finer diameter means each fibre is more flexible and gentler against the skin, which is why high-grade cashmere feels so soft and rarely itches. A longer staple length means the fibres can be spun into a stronger, more stable yarn with fewer loose ends, which reduces pilling and helps the garment hold up over time. So the best cashmere is not only softer but also more durable, resisting the bobbling that plagues cheaper, coarser, shorter-fibre yarns.
Why fine cashmere is rare
Part of cashmere's value lies in how little of it each animal produces. A single cashmere goat yields only around 150 to 200g of usable undercoat per year, combed from the soft fibres that grow beneath the coarser outer hair. It can take the annual yield of several goats to make one fine garment. Combine that scarcity with the careful sorting needed to separate the finest Grade A fibres, and it becomes clear why genuine high-grade cashmere commands a premium. Understanding the grade helps you judge whether a cashmere piece justifies its price.
Cashmere at OD's Designer Clothing
At OD's Designer Clothing we stock cashmere knitwear chosen for the quality of its fibre and finish, where softness and durability go hand in hand. Knowing how grading works helps you appreciate why a fine cashmere jumper feels and wears the way it does. We offer next-day delivery and free click and collect, and customers in the North West are welcome to feel the softness in person at our St Helens store.