Jean Construction
How jeans are put together decides how well they hold up to years of hard wear. This hub explains the main construction points, so you can judge quality by more than the wash. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).
Seams and hems
Flat-Felled Seams
Folded, double-stitched seams down the leg.
What defines it
Flat-felled seams enclose the raw edges and stitch through twice, giving the strong inseam that denim relies on.
Who it suits
It suits durable, well-made jeans. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).
Chain-Stitch Hem
A looped hem stitch that fades with roping.
What defines it
A chain-stitch hem uses a single looping thread that puckers slightly over time to create the prized roping fade at the cuff.
Who it suits
It suits raw and heritage denim.
Selvedge Outseam
A clean self-finished outer leg seam.
What defines it
On selvedge jeans the outseam uses the loom's finished edge, so it needs no overlocking and shows the selvedge line when cuffed.
Who it suits
It suits premium selvedge jeans.
Reinforcement
Bar-Tacks
Dense stitch bundles at stress points.
What defines it
Bar-tacks are tight clusters of stitching that reinforce pocket openings and the fly, often used alongside or instead of rivets.
Who it suits
It suits hard-wearing jeans. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).
Riveted Corners
Metal reinforcement at pocket corners.
What defines it
Riveted corners add a metal stud at each front pocket corner to stop the denim tearing under strain.
Who it suits
It suits classic durable jeans.
Hidden Rivets
Concealed back-pocket reinforcement.
What defines it
Hidden rivets reinforce the back pockets from the inside so the metal does not scratch furniture, a refined heritage detail.
Who it suits
It suits premium heritage denim.
Waist and finishing
Waistband
The band that holds the jeans at the waist.
What defines it
A well-made waistband is even, firmly stitched and curved slightly to sit smoothly without gaping at the back.
Who it suits
It suits comfortable, well-fitting jeans. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).
Belt Loops
The loops that carry a belt.
What defines it
Sturdy, well-anchored belt loops, usually five to seven, are bar-tacked in place so they hold a belt without pulling loose.
Who it suits
It suits everyday jeans worn with a belt.
Frequently asked questions
How can I tell if jeans are well made?
Look at the seams and reinforcement: flat-felled inseams, tight bar-tacks or rivets at the pocket corners, a chain-stitched hem and neat, even stitching all point to quality. A firm, curved waistband and well-anchored belt loops show the jeans are built to keep their shape and survive years of wear.
What is a chain-stitch hem?
A chain-stitch hem is sewn with a single looping thread rather than a straight lock stitch. Over time it puckers slightly, which creates the sought-after roping effect, a rippled fade along the cuff, so it is a favourite finish on raw and heritage denim.
What are bar-tacks on jeans?
Bar-tacks are dense little bundles of stitching used to reinforce high-strain points such as the pocket openings, belt loops and fly. They do the same job as rivets, holding the denim together where it is pulled hardest, and are a sign of durable construction.