Barbour Care Guide — How to Clean, Wash & Re-Wax a Barbour Jacket
Before you clean any Barbour, answer one question: is it waxed or not? Everything else follows from that. A waxed Barbour must never go in a washing machine and must never meet soap or detergent — Barbour's own instruction is that machine washing removes the wax coating permanently. A quilted or waterproof Barbour is the opposite: Barbour tells you to put it in the machine, just with a technical cleaner rather than normal detergent. Get those two the wrong way round and you ruin a jacket that should have lasted thirty years. This guide separates them properly, then walks the full routine for each — cleaning, re-waxing, reproofing and storage — with every instruction traced back to Barbour's own published care guidance.
1 | Waxed or Not? The Only Question That Matters
Most of the confusion around Barbour care comes from treating "a Barbour" as one thing. It isn't. The name covers waxed cotton jackets, quilted jackets, waterproof shells, knitwear, fleeces and casualwear, and the cleaning rules for the first group are close to the exact reverse of the rules for the rest.
| Jacket type | Machine wash? | What Barbour says to use |
|---|---|---|
| Waxed cotton | Never | Cold water and a sponge. No soap, no detergent, no hot water. |
| Quilted | Yes | Barbour Quilt Cleaner, half a capful (25ml), washed to the garment's care label. |
| Waterproof / non-waxed shell | Yes | Barbour Waterproof Cleaner, half a capful (25ml), washed to the care label. |
If you're unsure which you own, the fabric tells you. Waxed cotton has a faint oily feel, a matte finish, and it marks and creases in a way ordinary cotton doesn't — those creases are the point, not a flaw. Quilted jackets are the diamond- or box-stitched ones with a smooth polyamide face. Waterproof styles feel like a technical shell and usually carry taped seams inside.
The one rule above all others
- Barbour's own instruction on every care page is to check the care label sewn into your specific jacket first. Care varies by style, and the label overrides any general guidance — including everything on this page.
Worth knowing before you go further: Barbour and Barbour International are run as distinct lines with different fabric mixes, and the International range leans far more heavily on quilting, technical shells and casualwear than on wax. We break the two apart properly in our Barbour vs Barbour International guide.
2 | Why Waxed Cotton Hates Washing Machines
Waxed cotton is a densely woven cotton impregnated with a wax dressing. The wax sits in the weave and repels water by surface tension — there's no laminate, no membrane, no bonded coating. That single fact explains every prohibition in this guide.
The protection is the wax
Because the weather resistance lives in a wax layer rather than a bonded membrane, it can be renewed indefinitely with a fresh dressing. It can also be removed entirely — which is what a washing machine does.
Why machine washing is permanent
Barbour's instruction is explicit: never put the jacket in the washing machine, as this removes the wax coating permanently. This isn't a fussy recommendation — it's the difference between a jacket you can re-wax and one you can't.
Why soap and detergent are out
Barbour states that you should never use any kind of soap or detergent, as it will damage the jacket. Anything formulated to cut grease will cut wax — that includes stain removers and washing-up liquid.
Why heat is out
Barbour directs you to hang-dry in a well-ventilated area, out of direct sunlight, and away from the tumble dryer. Heat mobilises wax and redistributes it unevenly across the fabric.
Barbour's cleaning guidance also rules out dry cleaning with harsh chemicals for waxed cotton. The short version people search for — can you wash a Barbour wax jacket? — has a clean answer: not in the sense of washing. You clean it, by hand, cold, without soap. That's section 3.
3 | How to Clean a Barbour Wax Jacket
This is the routine Barbour publishes, and it's the same advice we give over the counter at 44 Barrow Street. It takes about ten minutes and needs nothing you don't already own.
The routine
- Brush off the dry dirt. Barbour specifies a dry, soft-bristled brush to lift dirt, dust and any excess wax — and warns against scrubbing motions. Let mud dry fully first; working at wet mud drives it into the weave.
- Wipe down with cold water. Using cold water and a moleskin cloth or a sponge, wipe down the outside of the jacket. Cold only — Barbour explicitly says to avoid hot water.
- No soap. At all. Barbour's guidance is never to use any kind of soap or detergent, because it will damage the jacket. If a mark won't lift with cold water, leave it rather than escalating.
- The lining is a separate job. For the inside, Barbour's method is to dampen a cloth or sponge in white vinegar and apply it to the lining — leaving it no longer than ten minutes.
- Hang it to dry. Leave the jacket to hang dry in a well-ventilated area, out of direct sunlight. No tumble dryer, no radiator.
The never list — waxed cotton
- Never put it in the washing machine — the wax coating goes permanently
- Never use soap, detergent or stain remover
- Never use hot water
- Never dry clean it with harsh chemicals
- Never tumble dry it or dry it in direct sunlight
In our experience the people who damage a wax jacket aren't careless — they're doing exactly what works on every other coat they own. A waxed Barbour simply runs on older rules. If a mark looks like it needs more than cold water, ring us on 01744 730985 before you try anything stronger. We'd much rather answer the phone than see the jacket afterwards.
Cleaning is also the first step of re-waxing, so if the jacket has stopped repelling water, do this properly and then carry straight on to section 4 — wax applied over dirt seals the dirt in.
4 | How to Wax a Barbour Jacket (Reproofing)
This is the job that makes a waxed jacket a thirty-year garment. When a synthetic coating fails, the jacket is finished. When wax fades, you put it back on. Barbour publishes a step-by-step method, and it's worth following exactly.
What you need
Barbour's reproofing product for its classic waxed cotton is Barbour Wax Thornproof Dressing. That's the named dressing in Barbour's own re-wax guide — not household wax, not a spray-on waterproofer designed for technical shells.
The method
- Clean the jacket first. Cold water and a sponge, as in section 3. The jacket needs to be clean before any wax goes on.
- Soften the wax. Remove the lid and stand the tin of dressing in a container of water hot enough to soften it. Barbour puts this at roughly twenty minutes to melt the wax to a liquid consistency.
- Work it in. Using an old cloth, rag or sponge, work the melted wax well into the jacket, paying particular attention to seams, creases and dry patches. Keep the tin standing in the hot water while you work so the dressing stays liquid.
- Know where not to go. Barbour's guide says to avoid the corduroy collar, the jacket interior and the insides of the pockets.
- Wipe off the excess. Thin and even beats thick and patchy — you can always add a second pass, but excess is a nuisance to remove.
- Hang it overnight. Allow the jacket to dry overnight in a warm place, away from other garments.
Right after re-waxing, keep it off your furniture
Barbour warns that a freshly waxed jacket may lose excess wax for a short while — so take care not to get it near leather or upholstery. Car seats are the one people forget.
How often?
Barbour's recommendation is to re-wax once a year, depending on how often you wear it. In practice the jacket tells you before the calendar does: when water stops beading on the surface and starts soaking in, it's time. A jacket worn daily through a Lancashire winter will want it annually; one worn a dozen times a year will go considerably longer.
Not confident doing it yourself?
Entirely reasonable on a jacket at this level. Barbour runs its own re-wax and repair service, and independent specialists offer the same. If you'd like pointing in the right direction, call the shop — we'd rather you asked than experimented on a jacket you like.
5 | Washing a Quilted or Waterproof Barbour
Here the rules invert. Most of the Barbour we sell day to day at OD's isn't waxed at all — it's quilted jackets, fleeces, technical shells, knitwear and casualwear, and those genuinely do go in the machine. Barbour publishes separate care guides for them, and the common thread is that normal detergent is the problem, not the machine.
Quilted jackets
Barbour's quilted care guide is direct: put the quilt in the washing machine and add half a capful (25ml) of cleaner to the drawer — double that dosage for a top-loader — then run the wash according to the quilt's care label. The product Barbour names is its technical Quilt Cleaner, and the reason matters: Barbour states that a normal detergent can strip away the water-repellent coating on your jacket, whereas the Quilt Cleaner cleans, prepares the jacket for further reproofing, and enhances its performance.
To reproof afterwards, Barbour's method is to add two capfuls (100ml) of Quilt Proofer to the drawer and run a cycle, then dry. Drying is air or tumble depending on the care label — Barbour notes that while air drying works well, a little heat helps the proofer set, so tumble drying (if the label allows) or a hairdryer is the better finish.
Waterproof and non-waxed shells
Same shape of routine, different bottle. Barbour's waterproof care guide calls for its Waterproof Cleaner — again half a capful (25ml) in the drawer, doubled for a top-loader, washed to the jacket's care label — on the same reasoning that normal detergent strips the water-repellent finish while the technical cleaner enhances existing repellency. Reproofing here is a spray rather than a wash-in: with the jacket clean and damp, shake the bottle and spray evenly, paying extra attention to well-worn areas, then remove any excess with a clean cloth before drying.
Barbour has also pointed to Nikwax Tech Wash for its non-waxed items — with the explicit caveat that the product is not suited to waxed cotton. That caveat is the whole guide in one line.
Non-waxed Barbour — the short version
- Machine washing is fine, to the care label
- Normal detergent is not — it strips the water-repellent finish
- Use Barbour's Quilt Cleaner or Waterproof Cleaner for the job
- Reproof separately: wash-in Quilt Proofer, or spray-on proofer for shells
- Never use a non-waxed cleaner on waxed cotton
Fleeces, knitwear and jersey follow their own labels — and since the Barbour and Barbour International ranges we carry are heavily weighted to exactly those pieces, the label really is the operative document. For what's actually in the women's range right now, our best Barbour for women guide walks through it.
6 | How to Style a Barbour Wax Jacket
Care and styling are linked more than people expect: a wax jacket that's looked after holds its shape and its colour, and a jacket that holds its shape is one you'll actually reach for. Here's how we see them worn — this section is our own shop-floor view rather than manufacturer guidance.
The three styles you'll actually meet
- The short waxed jacket. The classic hip-length cut with a corduroy collar. It's the most versatile silhouette Barbour makes — it sits over a knit and under nothing, works with denim and with tailoring, and doesn't read as countrywear in a town.
- The quilted jacket. Lighter, warmer for its weight, far easier to care for, and the one most people wear on the school run. Diamond quilting reads smarter; box quilting reads more casual.
- The longer waxed coat. Mid-thigh and above, cut for actual weather. Best styled simply — it's a strong enough shape that it doesn't want competition.
What works underneath
Waxed cotton is windproof and water-resistant rather than insulated, so warmth is a layering job. A lambswool crew or a half-zip under a wax jacket handles a normal British winter day comfortably; below freezing, treat the wax jacket as the weather-and-style layer and let a quilted or down piece do the heat. Barbour's own jackets are generally cut with room for a knit underneath, which is worth remembering when you size.
Colour, and the patina argument
Classic olive and navy are the two that never date, and both age well — waxed cotton develops creases and lighter wear points at the elbows and shoulders that most owners come to like. If you don't want that character, a quilted jacket is the honest answer; wax will always look like it's been somewhere. Keeping up the annual re-wax evens the colour out and stops the wear points going from character to threadbare.
Choosing between houses rather than styles? Our Belstaff vs Barbour comparison takes that on directly, and Berghaus vs The North Face vs Barbour covers it if you're weighing heritage wax against technical outerwear.
7 | Storage & Long-Term Ownership
Two storage instructions come straight from Barbour's own re-wax guidance, and they're the ones that matter most:
- Dry it fully, hung, in a warm place away from other garments. That's Barbour's post-wax drying instruction, and it's the right way to put any wax jacket away — a jacket stored damp is a jacket storing trouble.
- Keep a freshly waxed jacket away from leather and upholstery. Barbour warns it may shed excess wax for a while after reproofing.
Beyond those two, we'd rather tell you what we do in the shop than dress up guesswork as manufacturer instruction: we hang wax jackets on a broad hanger so the shoulders keep their line, keep them somewhere cool and dry rather than a hot loft or a damp garage, and give them air rather than sealing them in plastic. That's our practice, not a Barbour specification — if your jacket's label says otherwise, follow the label.
Water-resistant is not waterproof
Worth being straight about, because it's where a lot of disappointment starts. Waxed cotton resists water through the wax in the weave; it isn't a taped, membrane-backed waterproof shell, and it shouldn't be judged as one. If you want genuine waterproofing, that's what Barbour's waterproof range is for — and it's the same distinction we draw on the Belstaff side, where waxed cotton is likewise water-resistant rather than laminated. Our Belstaff vs Barbour guide covers how the two houses handle it.
The long game
A new wax jacket feels stiff and looks a bit too perfect. Both change. The fabric softens, the creases set where your body puts them, and each annual re-wax resets the weather protection without resetting the character. That's the trade waxed cotton offers: slightly more maintenance than a normal coat, in exchange for a garment that gets better for twenty years instead of worse for two.
8 | Where to Buy Barbour — Why OD's
OD's Designer Clothing has traded from 44 Barrow Street, St Helens since 1992 — call 01744 730985, Mon–Sat 9–5 — and holds a ★★★★★ 4.6 rating from 2,388 Reviews.io customer reviews. We sell Barbour and Barbour International in store and online, which is why the care advice on this page is the same advice you'll get standing at the counter.
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- Barbour and Barbour International — jackets, quilts, knitwear, bags and casualwear
- Try before you buy at 44 Barrow Street, St Helens — sizes on the rail, fitting room on site
- Straight care and fit advice from a team that sells Barbour daily
- Fast UK delivery and standard 14-day returns
- Stock checked by phone in seconds — 01744 730985 before you travel
Not sure which line you're looking at? Barbour and Barbour International are built around different fabrics and different customers. Our Barbour vs Barbour International guide separates them properly — and it changes which care routine on this page applies to you.
9 | Frequently Asked Questions
Can you wash a Barbour wax jacket?
Not in a washing machine — Barbour's instruction is never to put a waxed jacket in the machine, because it removes the wax coating permanently. You clean it by hand instead: a dry, soft-bristled brush for dirt and dust, then cold water and a moleskin cloth or sponge to wipe down the outside. Avoid hot water, and never use any kind of soap or detergent, as Barbour states this will damage the jacket. Always check the care label in your specific jacket first.
Can you wash a Barbour jacket that isn't waxed?
Yes. Quilted and waterproof Barbour jackets are machine washable — the catch is the product, not the machine. Barbour recommends its Quilt Cleaner for quilted styles and its Waterproof Cleaner for waterproof ones, half a capful (25ml) in the drawer, doubled for a top-loader, with the wash run according to the garment's care label. Barbour warns that normal detergent can strip away the water-repellent coating. Never use a non-waxed cleaner on waxed cotton.
How do you clean a Barbour wax jacket properly?
Barbour's method has five steps: use a dry soft-bristled brush to lift dirt, dust and excess wax without scrubbing; wipe the outside down with cold water and a moleskin cloth or sponge; use no soap or detergent at any point; for the lining, dampen a cloth or sponge in white vinegar and apply it for no longer than ten minutes; then hang the jacket to dry in a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. No tumble dryer.
How do you wax a Barbour jacket?
Clean the jacket first with cold water and a sponge, then take a tin of Barbour Wax Thornproof Dressing, remove the lid and stand it in water hot enough to soften the wax — roughly twenty minutes to reach a liquid consistency. Using an old cloth, rag or sponge, work the melted wax well into the jacket, paying particular attention to seams, creases and dry patches, and avoiding the corduroy collar, the jacket interior and the pocket interiors. Wipe off any excess, then hang the jacket to dry overnight in a warm place away from other garments.
How often should you re-wax a Barbour jacket?
Barbour recommends re-waxing once a year, depending on how often you wear it. The jacket usually signals it before the calendar does — when water stops beading on the surface and begins soaking in instead, it's ready. Daily winter wear tends to mean an annual re-wax; occasional wear stretches considerably further.
What wax do you use to reproof a Barbour?
For classic waxed cotton, Barbour's named reproofing product is Barbour Wax Thornproof Dressing. Don't substitute a household wax or a spray-on waterproofer intended for technical shells — Barbour's spray-on proofer and its Quilt Proofer are for its non-waxed waterproof and quilted styles respectively, and Barbour notes that products such as Nikwax Tech Wash are not suited to waxed cotton.
Can you dry clean a Barbour wax jacket?
No — Barbour's cleaning guidance rules out dry cleaning with harsh chemicals for waxed jackets, alongside machine washing, soap and detergent. Cold water, a sponge and a soft brush handle everything a waxed jacket actually needs, and re-waxing restores the weather protection when it fades.
How do you clean the lining of a Barbour jacket?
Barbour's method for the interior of a waxed jacket is to dampen a cloth or sponge in white vinegar and apply it to the lining, leaving it no longer than ten minutes. Then hang the jacket to dry in a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight, as with the outside of the jacket.