Gran Sasso vs Smedley
Gran Sasso and John Smedley are two of the most respected knitwear brands in the premium menswear market, and they represent the two dominant traditions in fine knitwear — Italian and British. Both make merino and fine-gauge knitwear at broadly similar price points. Both are genuinely excellent. But they are different products for different customers.
This guide compares them across the factors that matter: fibre sourcing, construction method, feel and drape, fit, price, and long-term durability. The goal is to give you an honest basis for choosing.
1 | Gran Sasso — The Italian Tradition
Gran Sasso has been producing knitwear in Pescara, in the Abruzzo region of central Italy, since 1952. The company is still family-owned and the production is still concentrated in the same region — the Italian knitwear heartland that also includes Brunello Cucinelli, Malo, and other high-end names.
Gran Sasso positions itself as what Italians call "sportswear elegante" — sportswear with elegance. The aesthetic leans relaxed rather than formal, but the construction and fibres are premium. This is knitwear designed to look effortless rather than considered.
Gran Sasso at a Glance
- Founded: 1952, Pescara, Abruzzo, Italy
- Production: 100% Made in Italy
- Key fibres: extrafine merino wool, cotton, linen, cashmere blends
- Aesthetic: Italian sportswear elegance — relaxed but refined
- Price at OD's: approximately £100–£220
- Gauge: mid-gauge (typically 12–14 gauge) — softer, more textured surface than ultra fine-gauge
The Gran Sasso customer appreciates Italian design culture: understated, considered, quality-led. These aren't classic British knitwear shapes — they're cut for the Italian silhouette, with a slightly more relaxed fit and a softer, more dimensional surface than British fine-gauge equivalents.
2 | John Smedley — The British Tradition
John Smedley has been producing knitwear in Lea Mills, Derbyshire, since 1784 — making it one of the oldest manufacturing companies in the world still in operation. The brand is synonymous with British fine-gauge knitting: ultra-fine Sea Island cotton and Merino wool knitted at 30 gauge (very fine) on specialist machines.
The result is knitwear that is extraordinarily fine — almost fabric-weight in the lightest pieces — with a clean, smooth surface that reads almost formal. The British tradition is about restraint, precision, and subtlety.
John Smedley at a Glance
- Founded: 1784, Lea Mills, Derbyshire, England
- Production: 100% Made in England
- Key fibres: Sea Island cotton, extrafine merino (30 gauge)
- Aesthetic: classic British — formal, restrained, precision-knit
- Price: approximately £150–£280
- Gauge: fine to ultra-fine (30 gauge) — smooth, flat surface with less visual texture
3 | Construction Compared
| Factor | Gran Sasso | John Smedley |
|---|---|---|
| Gauge | 12–14 gauge (mid-gauge) — gives soft texture and drape | 30 gauge (ultra fine) — produces smooth, almost flat surface |
| Primary fibre | Extrafine merino wool (Zegna Baruffa and similar Italian mills), cotton, linen blends | Sea Island cotton and extrafine merino — sourced to very specific micron counts |
| Knitting method | Fully fashioned — individual panels shaped during knitting and linked together | Fully fashioned — the same method, applied at finer gauge |
| Seam construction | Linked seams — a flat, ridge-free join that doesn't bulk or scratch | Linked seams — the British standard for fine-gauge knitwear |
| Finishing | Soft-hand finish — some texture retained in the fabric surface | Pressed smooth — the classic British fine-gauge finish, very flat and clean |
| Production country | 100% Italy | 100% England (Derbyshire) |
Gauge Explained
Gauge refers to the number of stitches per inch in the knitting. Higher gauge = finer yarn = smoother, more formal surface. Lower gauge = thicker yarn = more texture, better insulation. Gran Sasso's mid-gauge has more visual texture and body — it looks and feels like what most people think of as "knitwear." John Smedley's fine gauge has a flatter, smoother surface — it reads almost like a fabric rather than a knit, which is why it works under blazers and in formal contexts.
4 | Feel and Drape
This is the most subjective comparison and ultimately depends on personal preference — but the difference is real and worth understanding before you buy.
Gran Sasso — The Italian Feel
Soft, slightly textured, with body and drape. The mid-gauge merino has substance — you're aware of wearing knitwear. The surface is matte and subtly dimensional. It has warmth and weight without feeling heavy. Many wearers describe it as the most "luxurious" feeling knitwear at the price point.
John Smedley — The British Feel
Extraordinarily smooth, almost silky (particularly in Sea Island cotton). Very lightweight for its warmth. Almost no surface texture. The merino 30-gauge feels almost indistinguishable from a woven fabric — this is a feature for formal dressers but can feel less "knitwear-like" to those who want tactile texture.
Both are non-itch — Gran Sasso's extrafine merino and Smedley's fine merino are well below the micron count that causes prickle. The difference is texture, weight, and drape rather than comfort.
5 | Price Compared
Gran Sasso at OD's
Typically £100–£220 depending on fibre and style. Merino crews and half-zips sit £120–£170. Cashmere blends and more complex styles run to £200+. This positions Gran Sasso competitively against comparable Italian knitwear from Canali, Fedeli, and similar mid-luxury brands.
John Smedley
Typically £150–£280. The classic Merino crew sits around £180–£200. Sea Island cotton styles run £150–£220. Cashmere blends approach £300. John Smedley is priced slightly higher than Gran Sasso for equivalent pieces — reflecting the premium of English production and Sea Island sourcing.
Both brands offer good long-term value — knitwear at this construction level lasts for many years with proper care. The higher initial cost becomes more competitive over time compared to mid-range alternatives that pill and lose shape after a season.
6 | Durability
Both Gran Sasso and John Smedley produce genuinely durable knitwear — far more resistant to pilling, shape loss, and fibre degradation than mass-market alternatives. The differences are in failure mode rather than overall lifespan.
Gran Sasso Durability
The mid-gauge construction is inherently more resistant to snagging than ultra fine-gauge. The fabric has more body and is less prone to the fine-gauge tendency to develop pulls and holes at stress points. Merino at mid-gauge pills less than fine-gauge over time. With proper cold washing, Gran Sasso knitwear typically lasts five to ten years of regular wear.
John Smedley Durability
Ultra fine-gauge is more delicate than mid-gauge by nature — the yarns are finer and more susceptible to snags from rough surfaces. However, the fully-fashioned construction and linked seams mean that failure is typically at the fabric rather than the seams. With correct care (hand wash, flat dry), Smedley knitwear is extraordinarily long-lived — many wearers report pieces lasting fifteen years or more.
Care Summary for Premium Knitwear
- Hand wash in cool water with a wool-specific detergent, or gentle machine wash (wool cycle, 30°C)
- Never wring — roll in a towel to remove excess water
- Always dry flat to maintain shape — never hang knitwear
- Store folded, not on a hanger — hanging causes shoulder distortion in knitwear
- Use cedar blocks or lavender to deter moths — both merino and cashmere are attractive to moth larvae
7 | Which to Choose
Choose Gran Sasso if...
- You want Italian knitwear with visible luxury and warmth
- You prefer textured, dimensional knitwear over smooth fine-gauge
- Your wardrobe is casual-to-smart-casual rather than predominantly formal
- You're new to premium knitwear and want something that clearly reads as investment knitwear
- You want Italian provenance and the specific design language that comes with it
Consider John Smedley if...
- You want the finest-gauge knitwear available
- You want to wear knitwear formally under a suit or blazer
- You prefer British provenance and the specific heritage of Derbyshire manufacturing
- Sea Island cotton appeals to you for lightweight summer knitwear
- Ultra-smooth, fabric-like texture suits your preference
OD's Stocks Gran Sasso
We carry current-season Gran Sasso at 44 Barrow Street, St Helens. Browse the current range online or visit us in-store. Gran Sasso sizing runs Italian — slightly slimmer than UK equivalents through the body. Our team can advise on current-season fit.
8 | Frequently Asked Questions
Is Gran Sasso the same quality as John Smedley?
Both are genuinely premium knitwear at a similar quality tier — the difference is in tradition and construction approach rather than one being categorically better. Gran Sasso uses Italian mid-gauge knitting in the Abruzzo tradition — textured, warm, with visible drape. John Smedley uses British ultra fine-gauge knitting from Derbyshire — extraordinarily smooth, fine, and formal. Quality is high in both cases; the relevant question is which construction suits your preferences and wardrobe.
Is Gran Sasso itchy?
No. Gran Sasso uses extrafine merino with a micron count well below the itch threshold (typically under 18.5 microns). This is softer than standard merino and does not cause the prickling that some people associate with wool knitwear. Gran Sasso is suitable for wearers with sensitive skin who have previously found standard wool uncomfortable.
Where is Gran Sasso made?
Gran Sasso has produced exclusively in Pescara, Abruzzo, central Italy since 1952. The company is family-owned and production remains in the same region. All Gran Sasso knitwear carries the Made in Italy label — this reflects actual Italian production, not a design-in-Italy assembled-elsewhere arrangement.
Does Gran Sasso run true to size?
Gran Sasso runs Italian, which typically means slightly slimmer through the body and shorter in the body and sleeves than UK equivalents. If you're between sizes or prefer a more relaxed fit, sizing up is usually the right call. At OD's, our team can advise on specific styles — visit us in-store at 44 Barrow Street, St Helens if you want to try before buying.
Does OD's stock John Smedley?
OD's Designer Clothing stocks Gran Sasso. We do not currently stock John Smedley. This guide was written to help customers understand how Gran Sasso compares to other premium knitwear brands in the market. If you're interested in Gran Sasso, browse our current range at odsdesignerclothing.com or visit us at 44 Barrow Street, St Helens.