Dress Construction
How a dress is built decides how it fits, hangs and lasts. This hub explains the construction details you will find in dress descriptions so you know what you are paying for. Browse women's dresses (/collections/womens-dresses).
Shaping
Darts
Stitched folds that shape flat fabric to the body's curves.
What defines it
A dart is a tapered fold sewn into the fabric to take in width and create shape at the bust, waist or hip.
Why it matters
Darts turn a flat panel into a fitted shape, so they are a sign of a tailored, considered cut.
Princess Seams
Long curved seams that shape the bodice without darts.
What defines it
Princess seams run in curved lines from the shoulder or armhole down through the bust to the waist, shaping as they go.
Why it matters
They give a smooth, sculpted fit and are a mark of quality construction.
Boning
Thin rigid strips that support and structure a bodice.
What defines it
Boning is flexible plastic or metal strips set into channels in the bodice to hold its shape and support the bust.
Why it matters
It keeps a strapless or fitted bodice standing up on its own, common in occasion dresses.
Finishing
Lining
An inner layer that finishes the inside and adds cover.
What defines it
A lining is a second fabric layer inside the dress, hiding seams and giving comfort and opacity.
Why it matters
A full lining marks a better-made dress and stops light or sheer fabrics being see-through. Browse women's dresses (/collections/womens-dresses).
Closures
Invisible Zip
A concealed zip that disappears into the seam.
What defines it
An invisible zip hides its teeth inside the seam so only a fine line shows, usually at the back or side.
Why it matters
It keeps a clean, uninterrupted line, preferred on smart and occasion dresses.
Button Placket
A row of buttons down a reinforced front band.
What defines it
A placket is the finished band that carries a row of buttons and holes, as on a shirt dress.
Why it matters
It sets the style of shirt and tea dresses and lets you adjust the opening.
Elasticated Waist
A stretch-gathered waist that pulls on without fastenings.
What defines it
An elasticated waist runs elastic through a channel so the waist stretches to fit and gathers softly.
Why it matters
It gives comfort and an easy pull-on fit, common on relaxed and summer dresses.
Finishing
French Seams
A seam that encloses its own raw edges for a clean inside.
What defines it
A French seam sews the edge twice so the raw threads are wrapped inside, leaving no fraying.
Why it matters
It is a hallmark of fine finishing, common on lightweight and sheer dresses.
Bias Cut
Fabric cut on the diagonal so it drapes and clings softly.
What defines it
A bias cut lays the pattern at 45 degrees to the weave, giving natural stretch and fluid drape.
Why it matters
It is what makes a slip dress skim and move, though it needs skilled cutting.
Hem Finish
How the bottom edge is turned and secured.
What defines it
A hem finish can be a plain turned edge, a rolled hem on fine fabric, or a weighted hem for drape.
Why it matters
A neat, appropriate hem is a quick tell of overall quality.
Frequently asked questions
Why does a dress need a lining?
A lining finishes the inside, hides seams, adds comfort against the skin and stops light or sheer fabrics being see-through. A fully lined dress is usually better made and hangs better.
What is a bias cut and why does it matter?
A bias cut lays the fabric on the diagonal so it stretches and drapes softly, which is what lets a slip dress skim the body and move fluidly. It needs careful cutting, so it signals quality.
What is the difference between darts and princess seams?
Both shape a flat panel to the body. Darts are short stitched folds, while princess seams are long curved seams running through the bust. Princess seams give a smoother, more sculpted fit.