Jean Fabrics

Denim fabrics and weaves

Jean Fabrics

Raw, selvedge, stretch and rigid denim -- how the cloth wears

OD's Designer Clothing · Knowledge Hubs

Denim is a family of cloths, and the type decides how jeans feel, stretch and last. This hub explains the main denim fabrics, so a product description tells you how a pair will wear. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).

Rigid denim

Rigid Denim

Pure cotton denim with no stretch.

What defines it

Rigid denim is 100 per cent cotton with no elastane, so it holds its shape, ages beautifully and moulds to you over time.

Who it suits

It suits classic and heritage jeans. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).

Selvedge Denim

Denim woven on old-style shuttle looms.

What defines it

Selvedge denim is woven on narrow shuttle looms that finish the edge cleanly, marked by the coloured line inside the cuff, and prized for quality.

Who it suits

It suits denim enthusiasts. Browse Jacob Cohen jeans (/collections/mens-jacob-cohen-jeans).

Japanese Denim

Premium denim known for depth and character.

What defines it

Japanese denim is woven by mills known for rich indigo dyeing and characterful textures, often on vintage looms.

Who it suits

It suits premium, characterful jeans.

Stretch denim

Stretch Denim

Denim with a little elastane for movement.

What defines it

Stretch denim blends a small amount of elastane into the cotton so slimmer fits move with you and recover their shape.

Who it suits

It suits slim and skinny fits. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).

Power-Stretch Denim

Denim with high stretch and strong recovery.

What defines it

Power-stretch denim uses a stronger stretch yarn for maximum comfort and shape recovery, common in close fits.

Who it suits

It suits comfort-first slim jeans.

Comfort Denim

A softer denim with gentle give.

What defines it

Comfort denim adds a touch of stretch and a softer finish for easy all-day wear without a tight feel.

Who it suits

It suits relaxed everyday jeans.

Weight and quality

Lightweight Denim

A thinner denim for warm weather.

What defines it

Lightweight denim uses a lower fabric weight so jeans feel cooler and less bulky in spring and summer.

Who it suits

It suits warm-weather wear. Browse men's jeans (/collections/mens-jeans-denim).

Heavyweight Denim

A thick, hard-wearing denim.

What defines it

Heavyweight denim uses a higher fabric weight for a sturdy, structured jean that ages with strong fade patterns.

Who it suits

It suits winter and durable jeans.

Coated Denim

Denim with a surface coating for a sheen.

What defines it

Coated denim adds a resin or wax finish for a subtle sheen and a smarter, leather-like look.

Who it suits

It suits evening and directional outfits.

Frequently asked questions

What is selvedge denim?

Selvedge denim is woven on narrow, old-style shuttle looms that finish the fabric edge with a clean, self-bound band, usually marked by a coloured line you can see when the cuff is turned up. It is slower to make and prized for its quality, density and the way it fades.

Is stretch or rigid denim better?

Neither is better; it depends on what you want. Rigid denim is pure cotton, holds its shape and ages with character, which suits classic and looser fits. Stretch denim adds a little elastane for comfort and movement, which makes slim and skinny fits far easier to wear all day.

What does denim weight mean?

Denim weight is the weight of the fabric measured in ounces per square yard. Lighter denim feels cooler and softer and suits warm weather, while heavier denim is sturdier, more structured and develops stronger fade patterns, making it a good choice for winter and hard wear.

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