Ring-Spun Denim Explained

In brief: Ring-spun denim is made from yarn spun on a ring frame, which twists and thins the cotton fibres in a continuous spiral. This produces a stronger, softer yarn with subtle irregularities that fade with character, unlike the faster, cheaper, more uniform open-end (rotor) yarn. Double ring-spun denim uses ring-spun yarn in both the warp and the weft for maximum softness and texture.

What is ring-spun denim?

Ring-spun denim is woven from yarn produced by ring spinning, the older of the two main spinning methods. A ring frame continuously twists and thins the cotton fibres into a fine, strong yarn with a tight spiral structure. That extra twist and the natural irregularities it leaves behind are what give ring-spun denim its softer hand-feel, greater strength and the subtle surface texture that fades with character over time. It is the spinning method associated with premium and vintage-style denim.

Ring-spun vs open-end denim

The alternative is open-end, or rotor, spinning, which is faster and cheaper. Open-end yarn is more uniform and slightly stiffer, with a flatter, more regular surface, so it tends to fade in a flatter, less interesting way and feel a little rougher. Ring-spun yarn, by contrast, is stronger, softer and more irregular, which translates into denim that breaks in more pleasantly and develops more characterful fades. Most quality denim today uses ring-spun yarn for these reasons, with open-end yarn reserved for more basic, value pieces.

What is double ring-spun denim?

Double ring-spun denim, sometimes called ring-ring denim, uses ring-spun yarn in both the warp and the weft, rather than only the warp. Using the more characterful ring-spun yarn in both directions amplifies the softness, slubby texture and fading potential, which is why double ring-spun cloth is common in higher-end and Japanese-style denim. It is one more cue, alongside selvedge edges and rope-dyeing, that points to a more carefully made fabric.