What Is GORE-TEX
GORE-TEX® is a waterproof-breathable membrane developed by W. L. Gore & Associates. It sits between the outer fabric and the lining of a jacket or shoe, blocking rain while letting your sweat escape as vapour. The membrane contains over 9 billion pores per square inch — each one 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet but 700 times larger than a water vapour molecule. That ratio is the entire technology in one sentence: water cannot get in, but moisture can get out.
At OD's we stock GORE-TEX products from The North Face, Berghaus, and Salomon. This guide explains exactly how the technology works, which variants exist, how to care for it, and what the alternatives are.
1 | How GORE-TEX Works
GORE-TEX is built around a material called ePTFE — expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, the same base polymer as PTFE (Teflon). In 1969, Bob Gore accidentally discovered that PTFE could be rapidly stretched to create a porous, fibrous structure. That material, with its extraordinary combination of properties, became the foundation of the GORE-TEX brand.
The ePTFE Membrane
The ePTFE membrane is the functional core of all GORE-TEX products. When PTFE is stretched rapidly, it forms a microporous structure — a membrane riddled with billions of tiny holes per square centimetre. These holes are the technology. Their size relative to water molecules and water vapour molecules determines what passes through and what does not.
The Numbers That Define GORE-TEX
- 9 billion pores per square inch — the density of holes in the ePTFE membrane
- 20,000x smaller than a water droplet — liquid water cannot pass through
- 700x larger than a water vapour molecule — sweat vapour passes through freely
- 28,000mm+ water column rating — far exceeds the 10,000mm "waterproof" threshold
- Tested to 25,000 flexions in the GORE-TEX durability test
Why Rain Stays Out
Liquid water cannot pass through the ePTFE membrane because the pores are too small for water droplets. But there is a second layer of protection: the membrane is also hydrophobic — meaning it repels water by chemistry as well as by pore size. Even if surface tension were somehow sufficient to force water toward the membrane, the material's molecular structure actively repels it.
Why Sweat Gets Out
Water vapour molecules — sweat in gaseous form — are hundreds of times smaller than liquid water droplets. They pass through the pores freely, driven by the vapour pressure differential between the warm, humid microclimate inside the jacket and the cooler, drier air outside. The more you exert yourself and the greater the temperature difference, the more efficiently moisture escapes. GORE-TEX breathes hardest when you need it most.
2 | Waterproof and Breathable — Why Both Matter
Before GORE-TEX, waterproofing and breathability were considered mutually exclusive. A rubberised mackintosh keeps rain out but traps all moisture inside — you stay dry from rain but become soaked in sweat. Early plastic ponchos and coated nylon shared the same problem. The more waterproof the material, the more it prevented vapour escape.
GORE-TEX changed the equation. A GORE-TEX jacket keeps rain out and moves sweat vapour through simultaneously. This matters practically in any situation where you are both active and exposed to weather — hiking, trail running, cycling, skiing, or simply walking in a British November.
How Breathability Is Measured
Breathability is measured in MVTR — Moisture Vapour Transmission Rate — expressed in grams of water vapour transmitted per square metre per 24 hours (g/m²/24h). Standard GORE-TEX fabrics achieve around 25,000 g/m²/24h. GORE-TEX Active achieves over 35,000 g/m²/24h. These are not just specifications — they determine how hot and clammy you get during sustained aerobic activity.
The Real-World Breathability Test
You feel the difference between high and low breathability when you stop moving. In a highly breathable GORE-TEX Active jacket, stopping after a hard climb means the jacket continues to vent your heat. In a lower-breathability waterproof, stopping means immediate clamminess as moisture has nowhere to go. If your activity involves sustained effort, breathability matters as much as waterproofing.
3 | GORE-TEX Variants Explained
W. L. Gore produces several variants of the GORE-TEX membrane, each tuned for different use cases. Understanding the variants helps you choose the right jacket for your actual activity.
GORE-TEX
The standard. Durable waterproofing with good breathability (25,000+ g/m²/24h). The benchmark for everyday outerwear, hiking, and travel. Used in The North Face and Berghaus 3-layer jackets. Prioritises durability and protection over minimum weight.
GORE-TEX Active
Engineered for aerobic activity where breathability is critical. Higher MVTR (35,000+ g/m²/24h), lighter weight construction. Fewer layers, more flexible. Used in trail running jackets, cross-country ski shells, and high-output mountain activities. Salomon trail running jackets use GORE-TEX Active.
GORE-TEX Pro
The most durable, most protective variant. Used by mountaineers and guide-grade professionals. Heavier than Active, maximum abrasion resistance, highest waterproof rating. Found in technical alpine climbing jackets and serious expedition outerwear. Overkill for British hiking; correct for extreme environments.
GORE-TEX Paclite and Paclite Plus
Paclite is GORE-TEX engineered for packability. The standard two-layer construction replaces the inner knit face with a protective ePTFE backer, reducing weight and pack size. Paclite is the technology inside a jacket that compresses to the size of a water bottle. Paclite Plus adds slightly more durability while retaining the packable format. Used in emergency layers, travel jackets, and running kit.
GORE-TEX Infinium
A different technology entirely. GORE-TEX Infinium does not use the standard waterproof ePTFE membrane — it is a wind-resistant, highly breathable fabric that manages moisture without being fully waterproof. Used in gloves, headwear, and second layers where breathability and wind-resistance matter more than full waterproofing. Do not buy an Infinium product expecting a GORE-TEX jacket's rain protection.
Which Variant Do You Need?
- Everyday British weather, hiking, travel → Standard GORE-TEX
- Trail running, ski touring, mountain biking → GORE-TEX Active
- Alpine climbing, expedition mountaineering → GORE-TEX Pro
- Packable emergency layer, travel → GORE-TEX Paclite / Paclite Plus
- Gloves, headwear, wind layers → GORE-TEX Infinium
4 | Which OD's Brands Use GORE-TEX?
At OD's Designer Clothing, we stock three brands that incorporate GORE-TEX technology across their technical outerwear range: The North Face, Berghaus, and Salomon. Each brand applies the technology to a different product category and use case.
The North Face — Mountain and Urban
The North Face has been an authorised GORE-TEX manufacturer since the brand's early years. Their GORE-TEX products span everything from technical mountain shells to urban lifestyle jackets. The Dryvent equivalent is used in more accessible products; GORE-TEX is reserved for their Summit Series and premium outerwear. At OD's, TNF GORE-TEX products include trail and mountain jackets designed for serious British weather. Shop The North Face
Berghaus — British Heritage Waterproofing
Berghaus is a British brand with deep roots in waterproof outerwear — they were among the first UK brands to adopt GORE-TEX. Their Hydroshell Elite and Hydroshell products sit alongside GORE-TEX in the range. GORE-TEX Berghaus products are their top-tier performance outerwear — the jackets designed for extended exposure to serious mountain weather. Shop Berghaus
Salomon — Trail and Mountain Running
Salomon uses GORE-TEX Active in their trail running and mountain running jackets — the variant specifically engineered for aerobic, high-output activities. A Salomon GORE-TEX Active jacket is designed to vent your sweat while running at pace through a rainstorm. It is not overbuilt for this purpose. It is exactly built for it. Shop Salomon
Identifying GORE-TEX Products
Every genuine GORE-TEX product carries the GORE-TEX hangtag and label inside the jacket. The specific variant (GORE-TEX, Active, Pro, Paclite) is stated on the label. If the product has GORE-TEX in the name or marketing, the hangtag must be present — this is a brand licensing requirement that Gore enforces strictly.
5 | How to Care for GORE-TEX (Including Restoring the DWR)
GORE-TEX jackets are designed to last for years with correct care. The most common performance problems are caused by care failures, not membrane failure. Understanding how to care for a GORE-TEX garment is as important as understanding how it works.
Why GORE-TEX Stops Repelling Water
The ePTFE membrane inside GORE-TEX garments remains functional for the life of the jacket in virtually all circumstances — it is exceptionally durable. What degrades is the DWR — Durable Water Repellent — coating on the outer face fabric. DWR is a chemical treatment applied to the outer fabric that causes water to bead up and roll off rather than saturating the face fabric. When DWR degrades through washing, dirt, and use, the outer fabric "wets out" — it absorbs water and becomes heavy and cold, even though the membrane is still blocking rain from entering.
Wetting Out vs Leaking — The Critical Distinction
- Wetting out — outer fabric absorbs water, becomes dark and heavy, feels clammy. DWR has degraded. The membrane is still working. You are still dry inside. Fix this by washing and reproofing.
- Leaking — water passes through seams or fabric and you feel wet inside. This is membrane or seam tape failure. Rare in quality GORE-TEX garments. Requires professional repair or replacement.
Washing Restores DWR
Counter-intuitively, washing your GORE-TEX jacket restores water repellency. Heat from the tumble dryer or warm iron activates the remaining DWR molecules and causes them to stand upright again — recharging the water-repellent performance. Many garments that appear to have failed DWR simply need a wash and a low-heat tumble dry.
The Correct Care Process
- Check the care label — most GORE-TEX garments wash at 40°C on a gentle cycle
- Use a technical garment detergent (Nikwax Tech Wash, Grangers Performance Wash) — standard detergents leave residues that block membrane pores
- Do not use fabric softener — it clogs the membrane and destroys DWR
- Rinse thoroughly — residue is the enemy of membrane performance
- Tumble dry on low heat, or iron on low through a cloth — heat reactivates DWR
- If DWR is exhausted, reproof with a DWR spray or wash-in product (Nikwax TX.Direct, Grangers Performance Repel)
How Often to Wash
Wash after every three to five uses, or whenever the jacket visibly wets out rather than beading water. Dirt, sweat, and body oils are the primary DWR killers — regular washing prevents the build-up that causes performance degradation. GORE-TEX garments perform better when washed regularly, not when stored and never cleaned.
6 | GORE-TEX Alternatives
GORE-TEX is the most recognised waterproof-breathable membrane, but it is not the only one. Several brands have developed proprietary technologies that compete on performance, often at lower price points. Understanding these alternatives helps you assess the full range of waterproof outerwear available.
Hydroshell (Berghaus)
Berghaus's own waterproof-breathable technology, used across their mid-range outerwear. Hydroshell uses a polyurethane (PU) membrane rather than ePTFE — a different approach that delivers solid waterproof performance at a lower cost than GORE-TEX. Hydroshell Elite is the premium variant, approaching GORE-TEX Active performance. Available at OD's in the Berghaus range.
DryVent (The North Face)
The North Face's proprietary waterproof technology, used in their mid-range and accessible jackets. DryVent uses a PU membrane and performs well for everyday weather protection and moderate activity levels. Solid for British weather and casual use. Higher-end TNF products step up to GORE-TEX. Available at OD's in The North Face collection.
FUTURELIGHT (The North Face)
The North Face's premium proprietary technology, developed as a GORE-TEX alternative for their Summit Series. FUTURELIGHT uses a nanospun membrane — electrospun fibres creating an ultra-fine porous structure. Claims higher breathability than standard GORE-TEX with lower weight. Limited to TNF's premium performance range.
eVent and Polartec NeoShell
Used by various outdoor brands in technical products. eVent is a competitor ePTFE membrane that claims higher breathability than standard GORE-TEX through direct venting (no polyurethane layer on the membrane). NeoShell is Polartec's ultra-breathable membrane, prioritising breathability over maximum waterproofing — suited to aerobic activities in milder wet conditions.
GORE-TEX vs Alternatives: When to Pay the Premium
GORE-TEX is worth the premium when: you need the most durable long-term waterproofing, you are exposed to sustained heavy rain rather than occasional showers, you are buying a technical jacket that needs to last ten years, or you want the specific GORE-TEX Active breathability for aerobic mountain activity.
When Alternatives Are Sufficient
Hydroshell, DryVent, and equivalent PU membranes are excellent for everyday British weather, commuting, casual hiking, and activities where you are not exerting at full aerobic capacity in sustained downpours. For most people, most of the time, a good PU membrane jacket is the correct choice.
Shop Gore-Tex Outerwear at OD's
Every piece below is in stock at OD's Designer Clothing — authorised UK stockist.