Shirt Details & Trims
Small details separate a good shirt from a basic one and change how smart or casual it reads. This hub explains the main shirt details and trims, so you can spot the features that matter. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Front and back
Front Placket
The reinforced strip that carries the buttons.
What defines it
A front placket is a folded, stitched band down the front that houses the buttonholes and gives a smart, structured centre line.
Who it suits
It suits smart and business shirts. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Concealed Placket
A fly front that hides the buttons.
What defines it
A concealed, or fly placket covers the buttons with an extra fabric flap for a clean, minimal front, often on evening shirts.
Who it suits
It suits formal and dress shirts.
Yoke
The shoulder panel across the upper back.
What defines it
A yoke is the panel across the shoulders; a split yoke uses two pieces to fit the shoulders better and is a mark of quality.
Who it suits
It suits well-made smart shirts.
Fit details
Back Pleats
Folds at the back that add room to move.
What defines it
Back pleats, either a box pleat or side pleats, add fabric across the shoulder blades for easier movement.
Who it suits
It suits shirts worn for long days. Browse men's shirts (/collections/mens-shirts).
Gauntlet Button
A small button on the sleeve placket.
What defines it
A gauntlet button sits on the sleeve opening above the cuff to keep the placket closed and neat when the sleeve is rolled or worn.
Who it suits
It suits smart shirts with a tidy sleeve.
Trims and hardware
Chest Pocket
A patch pocket on the left chest.
What defines it
A chest pocket adds a casual, practical touch; smart dress shirts often leave it off for a cleaner front.
Who it suits
It suits casual and everyday shirts.
Pearl Buttons
Natural shell buttons with a soft sheen.
What defines it
Mother-of-pearl buttons are cut from shell for a subtle lustre and weight that mark out a premium shirt over plastic buttons.
Who it suits
It suits premium smart shirts. Browse Paul Smith shirts (/collections/mens-paul-smith-shirts).
Contrast Trim
Contrast fabric inside the collar or cuff.
What defines it
Contrast trim adds a different fabric or colour inside the collar stand, cuff or placket for a subtle design detail.
Who it suits
It suits characterful smart-casual shirts.
Frequently asked questions
What is a split yoke on a shirt?
A split yoke is a shoulder panel made from two pieces of fabric joined at the centre back rather than one. It lets the maker angle the cloth to each shoulder for a better fit and to match patterns neatly, so it is often a sign of a more carefully made shirt.
Why do some shirts not have a chest pocket?
A chest pocket adds a casual, practical note, so smarter dress shirts often leave it off to keep the front clean and formal. Casual and everyday shirts usually keep the pocket. It is a matter of style rather than quality.
Are mother-of-pearl buttons better?
Mother-of-pearl buttons are cut from natural shell, so they have a subtle sheen, a little weight and a quality feel that plastic buttons lack. They are more delicate and more expensive, which is why they tend to appear on premium shirts.