Legging Construction

Construction detail of women's leggings

Legging Construction

Seams, panels, hems and gussets -- how leggings are built

OD's Designer Clothing · Knowledge Hubs

How a legging is sewn together decides its comfort, support and how long it lasts. This hub explains the seams, panels and finishes behind a well-made pair, so you know what to look for. Browse women's leggings (/collections/womens-leggings-track-bottoms).

Seams and joins

Flatlock Seam

A flat seam that reduces chafing.

What defines it

A flatlock seam butts two edges together and stitches them flat, removing the raised ridge that rubs the skin.

Who it suits

It suits long training and chafe-prone wear. Browse women's leggings (/collections/womens-leggings-track-bottoms).

Bonded Seam

A glued, stitch-free join.

What defines it

A bonded seam fuses fabric with heat and adhesive instead of thread for a smooth, near-invisible join.

Who it suits

It suits seamless-look, high-end leggings.

Overlock Seam

A stretchy stitched seam that stops fraying.

What defines it

An overlock seam wraps thread over the fabric edge, giving a strong, stretchy join that copes with movement.

Who it suits

It suits everyday and value leggings.

Panels and shaping

Gusset Panel

A shaped crotch panel for movement.

What defines it

A gusset panel adds a triangular or diamond piece at the crotch to remove the central seam and add room.

Who it suits

It suits yoga and deep squats. Browse women's leggings (/collections/womens-leggings-track-bottoms).

Contour Panel

Shaped panels that follow the leg.

What defines it

Contour panels are cut and pieced to follow the leg's curves, improving fit and creating a flattering line.

Who it suits

It suits sculpting and performance leggings.

Compression Panel

Firmer zones that support key muscles.

What defines it

Compression panels place higher-hold fabric over the waist, hips or thighs to target support where it helps most.

Who it suits

It suits running and heavy training. Browse activewear leggings (/collections/womens-red-run-activewear-leggings).

Hems and finishes

Elastic-Free Hem

A hem that holds its shape without elastic.

What defines it

An elastic-free hem uses a bonded or coverstitched edge that lies flat and stays put without a gripping band.

Who it suits

It suits a clean, smooth ankle finish. Browse women's leggings (/collections/womens-leggings-track-bottoms).

Coverstitch Hem

A twin-needle hem that stretches with the fabric.

What defines it

A coverstitch hem uses two parallel rows of stitching to give a neat, stretchy, durable edge.

Who it suits

It suits training leggings that need a strong hem.

Frequently asked questions

What makes a well-made legging?

A well-made legging has flatlock or bonded seams to reduce chafing, a gusset for freedom of movement, a dense squat-proof knit and a secure, non-roll waistband. Neat coverstitched hems and shaped panels are further signs of quality construction.

Why do leggings have a gusset?

A gusset removes the single seam at the crotch and replaces it with a shaped panel, giving more room to move, reducing strain on the seams and improving both comfort and durability. It matters most for squats, lunges and yoga.

What is a flatlock seam?

A flatlock seam joins two fabric edges and stitches them flat so the join sits level with the skin instead of forming a ridge. This reduces rubbing and chafing, which is why it is common on running and training leggings worn for long sessions.

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