Wool -- The Natural Performance Fibre
Wool was the original performance fibre long before the word existed: it keeps you warm even when damp, breathes to stop you overheating, resists odour and springs back from creasing. But wool covers a huge range, from hardy lambswool to the cloud-soft luxury of cashmere. This guide explains the main wool types, the luxury fibres, and how to judge and care for them, with links to the fabric types overview and the brands that do wool best.
Wool Types
Merino Wool
The fine, soft wool you can wear next to the skin.
What it is
Merino wool comes from Merino sheep and has a very fine fibre, making it soft enough to wear next to the skin without the itch of coarser wools. It regulates temperature, wicks moisture and resists odour superbly.
Why it matters
Merino is the all-rounder of wool: warm in winter, cool in summer, and endlessly comfortable. See what is merino wool for the full story. It is the backbone of fine-gauge knitwear.
Lambswool
The soft, springy wool from a lamb's first shearing.
What it is
Lambswool is the wool from a lamb's first shearing, around the age of seven months. This first-cut fibre is softer, finer and springier than wool from an adult sheep, with excellent natural elasticity.
Why it matters
Lambswool offers a lovely balance of softness, warmth and resilience at a sensible price, which is why it is a favourite for quality jumpers and cardigans that keep their shape.
Luxury Fibres
Geelong Wool
An ultra-fine Australian lambswool prized for softness.
What it is
Geelong wool is a rare, ultra-fine lambswool from a specific region of southern Australia. It is finer and softer than standard lambswool, approaching cashmere in feel while keeping wool's resilience.
Why it matters
Geelong sits between everyday lambswool and true luxury fibres -- exceptionally soft yet hard-wearing. It is the mark of premium knitwear from makers like Gran Sasso; see the Gran Sasso knitwear guide.
Cashmere
The benchmark luxury fibre -- feather-light warmth and softness.
What it is
Cashmere is the soft undercoat of the cashmere goat, combed out by hand. It is extraordinarily fine, light and warm -- far warmer than sheep's wool for its weight -- with a softness that defines luxury knitwear.
Why it matters
Cashmere is the gold standard for soft warmth. Quality varies with fibre length and ply; Italian cashmere is especially prized. It rewards gentle care with years of comfort.
Fine-Gauge & Lisle
The refined, smooth finish of the finest knitted wools.
What it is
Fine-gauge knits use very thin yarn knitted at high stitch density for a smooth, refined surface, while lisle describes a similarly fine, smooth treatment. The result is a polished, lightweight knit rather than a chunky one.
Why it matters
Fine-gauge wool knitwear layers neatly under a jacket and looks dressier than a heavy knit. It is the signature of Italian knitwear houses and a hallmark of quality construction.
Quality & Care
The Woolmark
The certification that guarantees genuine, quality wool.
What it is
The Woolmark is an independent certification confirming a product is made from genuine wool to defined quality standards. The logo distinguishes certified wool from blends or imitations.
Why it matters
Where it appears, the Woolmark is a quick guarantee of fibre authenticity and quality, taking the guesswork out of judging whether a garment is the real thing.
Judging Wool Quality
The fibre fineness, ply and finish that separate good from great.
What to look for
Look at fineness (finer fibre, measured in microns, feels softer), ply (two-ply yarns are more durable and hold shape), and finish (even, dense knitting with no thin patches). Feel for softness without scratchiness and a springy, resilient hand.
Why it matters
These details decide whether knitwear pills and sags or stays soft and holds its shape for years. Knowing them lets you spot real quality beyond the price tag -- the quality hub goes further.
Caring for Wool
Washing, drying and storing wool to keep it soft and in shape.
How to do it
Wash wool gently -- hand wash or a wool cycle in cool water with wool-safe detergent -- and never wring or tumble dry. Dry flat to hold the shape, fold rather than hang to avoid stretching, and store clean to deter moths. Cashmere especially wants this gentle routine.
Why it matters
Heat and agitation felt and shrink wool irreversibly, while hanging stretches it out of shape. Correct care keeps wool soft, sized and lasting for many years; the clothing care guide has the detail.
Frequently asked questions
What is the softest type of wool?
Cashmere is the softest commonly available wool, made from the fine undercoat of the cashmere goat -- it is light, warm and luxuriously soft. Among sheep's wools, ultra-fine Geelong lambswool comes closest to cashmere, followed by fine merino wool, which is soft enough to wear next to the skin. Fibre fineness, measured in microns, is what determines softness.
Is merino wool itchy?
No -- merino wool is specifically valued for not being itchy. Its fibres are much finer than ordinary wool, so they bend rather than prickle against the skin, making it comfortable to wear next to the body. This is why merino is used for base layers and fine knitwear. Itch usually comes from coarser, thicker wool fibres, not from fine merino.
What is the difference between lambswool and regular wool?
Lambswool is the wool from a lamb's very first shearing, at around seven months old, while regular wool comes from adult sheep. Because it is the first cut, lambswool is softer, finer and springier, with better natural elasticity. This makes it more comfortable and better at holding its shape, which is why it is favoured for quality knitwear.
How do I wash wool without shrinking it?
Wash wool gently in cool water, either by hand or on a dedicated wool cycle, using a wool-safe detergent. Never wring, agitate vigorously or tumble dry, as heat and friction cause wool to felt and shrink permanently. Dry flat in shape rather than hanging. Many quality wool garments are best hand-washed or, for delicate cashmere, professionally cleaned.
Why is wool good for both warm and cold weather?
Wool is naturally temperature-regulating: its crimped fibres trap warm air for insulation in the cold, while its breathability and moisture-wicking let heat and sweat escape when it is warm. It also insulates even when damp and resists odour. Fine wools like merino do this especially well, making wool a genuine year-round performance fibre.