Cashmere & Luxury Knitwear -- The Finest Fibres, Explained
Luxury knitwear is defined by its fibre. Cashmere, the fine undercoat of cashmere goats, leads the field -- extraordinarily soft, light and warm for its weight -- but it sits alongside other prized fibres like alpaca, mohair and silk blends. Quality varies enormously with grade, ply and finishing, so knowing what to look for matters. This hub explains each luxury fibre, how to judge a genuine quality piece, and how to keep it at its best. It links to the Italian cashmere guide and the flagship knitwear types guide.
Cashmere
What Cashmere Is
The fine goat-down fibre behind the world's softest knits.
What it is
Cashmere is the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, combed out by hand each spring. The fibres are extremely fine and light, giving a knit that is remarkably soft, warm for its weight and beautifully draping. See the cashmere glossary for the full background.
Why it matters
Cashmere offers warmth and softness that ordinary wool cannot match, which is why it commands a premium. Understanding what it is helps you judge whether a piece is worth its price.
Cashmere Grade & Ply
Why not all cashmere is created equal.
What it is
Cashmere quality depends on the length and fineness of the fibres (grade A is longest and finest) and the ply -- the number of yarns twisted together. A two-ply cashmere is denser and more durable than single-ply, while longer fibres pill less and last longer.
Why it matters
Grade and ply explain why two cashmere jumpers at very different prices can feel and wear so differently. The Italian cashmere guide explains what separates great cashmere from the rest.
Italian Cashmere
The finishing and craft that define premium cashmere.
What it is
Italian cashmere refers less to where the fibre is grown and more to how it is spun, knitted and finished -- Italy's mills and knitwear houses are renowned for turning fine cashmere into beautifully made garments with a soft, refined handle and excellent construction.
Why it matters
The making matters as much as the fibre. Italian craft is why the best cashmere feels and lasts the way it does -- the Italian cashmere guide covers it in detail.
Other Luxury Fibres
Alpaca
A warm, silky, hard-wearing luxury fibre.
What it is
Alpaca comes from the alpaca, a relative of the llama, and is warmer and stronger than sheep's wool, with a soft, silky handle and a natural lustre. It contains no lanolin, so it is hypoallergenic, and it drapes beautifully in knitwear.
Why it matters
Alpaca offers luxury softness and exceptional warmth with more durability than cashmere, making it a superb choice for those who want a premium feel that wears hard.
Mohair
A lustrous, fluffy fibre from the Angora goat.
What it is
Mohair comes from the Angora goat and is known for its high sheen, fluffy halo and resilience. It takes dye brilliantly for rich colours, and is often blended with wool to add softness, lustre and a distinctive hairy texture to a knit.
Why it matters
Mohair gives a knit a luxurious lustre and warmth with a unique fuzzy character -- a statement fibre for those who want something with more visual texture than plain wool.
Silk & Luxury Blends
Silk mixed with cashmere or wool for sheen and drape.
What it is
Silk is often blended with cashmere or fine wool to add a subtle sheen, smoothness and beautiful drape, while also improving strength. A silk-cashmere blend is lighter and more lustrous than pure cashmere, ideal for fine, elegant knits.
Why it matters
Luxury blends fine-tune the feel and look of a knit -- silk adds elegance and durability to soft fibres, giving a refined piece that drapes well and resists wear.
Buying & Caring for Luxury Knits
Judging a Luxury Knit
How to tell genuine quality from a soft-feeling fake.
What to look for
Check the fibre and grade on the label, feel for a dense, springy knit rather than a thin loose one, and look for a soft but resilient handle that recovers when squeezed. Beware very cheap "cashmere" -- low-grade short fibres feel soft at first but pill and thin quickly.
Why it matters
A genuine quality luxury knit holds its shape and softness for years, while a poor one disappoints fast. The quality hub gives the full checklist for judging any knit.
Caring for Cashmere & Luxury Knits
Keeping delicate fibres soft and in shape.
What to do
Hand wash or use a delicate wool cycle in cool water with a gentle detergent, never wring or tumble dry, and dry flat in shape. Fold rather than hang, store clean to deter moths, and de-pill gently with a comb or cashmere shaver to keep the surface smooth.
Why it matters
Luxury fibres reward gentle care with years of softness, and punish rough handling with felting and bobbling. The care hub and de-pilling guide walk through the routine.
Why Cashmere Pills
Understanding and managing bobbling on soft knits.
What it is
Pilling is the little balls of fibre that form where a knit rubs against itself or other surfaces. It is most common with soft, short-fibre yarns like cashmere, especially in the first few wears as loose fibres work free, and it eases once they have shed.
Why it matters
A little early pilling is normal even on good cashmere, not a sign of a fake -- the key is gentle removal rather than pulling. The de-pilling guide shows the right technique.
Frequently asked questions
What makes cashmere so expensive?
Cashmere is costly because it is scarce and labour-intensive. Each cashmere goat produces only a small amount of usable down each year, combed out by hand, and it takes the fleece of several goats to make a single jumper. The finest, longest fibres -- which are the softest and most durable -- are rarer still. Add skilled spinning, knitting and finishing, especially from Italian houses, and the price reflects genuine scarcity and craft.
How can I tell if cashmere is good quality?
Look at the fibre grade and ply on the label -- two-ply, long-fibre (grade A) cashmere is denser and more durable. Feel for a knit that is soft but springy and recovers when you squeeze it, not thin and limp. Genuine quality cashmere has body and warmth without feeling flimsy. Be wary of very cheap cashmere, which often uses short fibres that feel soft at first but pill heavily and thin out within a season.
Is alpaca better than cashmere?
Neither is simply better -- they suit different priorities. Cashmere is the softest and lightest, with an unmatched luxury handle, but it is delicate and pills more easily. Alpaca is warmer, stronger and more hard-wearing, with a silky feel and natural lustre, and it is hypoallergenic. If you want the ultimate in softness, choose cashmere; if you want luxury warmth that wears harder, alpaca is an excellent choice.
Does all cashmere pill?
Most cashmere will pill a little, especially in the first few wears, because its short, soft fibres work loose and ball up where the garment rubs. This is normal even on good cashmere and usually settles once the loose fibres have shed. Higher-grade, longer-fibre, two-ply cashmere pills less and lasts longer. Manage it by de-pilling gently with a comb or cashmere shaver rather than pulling the pills off.
How do I wash a cashmere jumper?
Hand wash cashmere in cool water with a gentle or cashmere-specific detergent, or use a delicate wool cycle if the label allows. Never wring or scrub it, and never tumble dry -- heat and agitation felt and shrink the fibres. Gently press out the water, reshape the jumper and dry it flat away from direct heat. Fold cashmere to store rather than hanging, and keep it clean to deter moths.