What Is Italian Cashmere? A Buyer's Guide
What Is Cashmere?
Cashmere is a natural fibre obtained from the undercoat of cashmere goats (Capra hircus). The goats grow a fine, soft undercoat beneath their coarser outer hair to survive winter temperatures that can drop below −30°C in the high-altitude regions of Inner Mongolia, China, Iran, and Afghanistan. This undercoat is combed — not sheared — from the goats during their spring moult, yielding a small quantity of fibre per animal: typically 150–200 grams per goat, per year.
This limited yield is the primary reason cashmere costs more than other natural fibres. A single cashmere jumper requires the annual fleece of two to three goats. By comparison, a merino wool jumper uses a fraction of one sheep’s annual shearing. Cashmere’s scarcity is not manufactured — it is a biological fact that no amount of farming can significantly change.
Why Cashmere Feels Different
Cashmere fibres are finer than human hair — typically 14–19 microns in diameter compared to 20–40 microns for standard wool. This fineness creates the characteristic softness that makes cashmere immediately recognisable. The fibres also trap air efficiently, providing exceptional warmth relative to their weight. A well-made cashmere jumper is warmer than an equivalent-weight wool jumper, softer against the skin, and lighter to wear.
Why Italian Cashmere?
Italy does not produce raw cashmere — the goats live in Central Asia, not Tuscany. What Italy brings to cashmere is 600 years of textile expertise, concentrated in specific regions that have refined the processing, spinning, and knitting of natural fibres to an art form.
The Processing Difference
Raw cashmere arrives in Italian mills as bales of combed fibre. What happens next determines the quality of the finished garment. Italian mills — particularly those in the Abruzzo region (where Gran Sasso is based), Biella (Piedmont), and Prato (Tuscany) — use multi-stage processing that includes:
- Dehairing: Separating the fine undercoat from coarser guard hairs. Italian mills use precision dehairing that removes more coarse fibres, resulting in a softer finished product.
- Washing and conditioning: Removing lanolin, dirt, and residues while preserving the fibre’s natural properties. Italian mills use gentler processes that maintain fibre length and softness.
- Spinning: Converting loose fibre into yarn. Italian spinners control tension, twist, and ply to create yarns that knit into fabrics with specific drape, weight, and hand feel.
- Knitting: The final stage where yarn becomes garment. Italian knitting mills use fully-fashioned construction — each panel is knitted to shape rather than cut from a flat sheet. This eliminates raw edges and creates garments that sit better on the body.
The Italian Advantage
Italian cashmere is not a different fibre — it is the same goat hair, processed with more skill, spun with more precision, and knitted with more care. The result is a garment that feels softer, drapes better, holds its shape longer, and pills less than cashmere processed in factories optimised for speed and cost.
Cashmere Grading
Not all cashmere is equal. The quality of the raw fibre varies by region, altitude, goat breed, and even the time of year the fibre is combed. Understanding grading helps you assess whether a cashmere garment justifies its price.
| Grade | Fibre Diameter | Source | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Grade A (finest) | 14–15.5 microns | Inner Mongolia, high altitude | Exceptionally soft, minimal pilling, premium durability |
| Grade B | 15.5–19 microns | Mongolia, Iran, Afghanistan | Soft, good durability, the standard for quality knitwear |
| Grade C | 19–30 microns | Various regions, mixed herds | Less soft, more prone to pilling, lower cost |
What the Grade Means in Practice
Grade A cashmere costs significantly more at the raw material stage, and the price carries through to the finished garment. A Grade A cashmere jumper will feel noticeably softer than a Grade C equivalent, pill less over time, and maintain its shape through more washes. However, the difference between Grade A and Grade B is subtle — most people would struggle to distinguish them by touch alone. The practical sweet spot for quality knitwear is Grade B cashmere processed by a skilled Italian mill.
Buyer’s Tip
If a “cashmere” garment costs under £50, it is almost certainly Grade C fibre, machine-processed for speed, and will pill within weeks. Quality Italian-processed cashmere starts at £150+ for a jumper. The price reflects the fibre quality and the processing standards — not just the brand name.
Italian vs Chinese Cashmere
China produces approximately 70% of the world’s raw cashmere and processes a significant proportion of it domestically. Chinese-processed cashmere is not inherently bad — some Chinese mills produce excellent quality. But the average quality of Chinese-processed cashmere sits below the average quality of Italian-processed cashmere, for specific technical reasons:
Italian Processing
Multi-stage dehairing removes more coarse fibres. Gentler washing preserves fibre length. Controlled spinning creates consistent yarn tension. Fully-fashioned knitting creates garments shaped on the machine. Higher labour costs but superior finishing. Result: softer hand feel, less pilling, better drape, longer garment life.
Budget Processing
Faster dehairing leaves more coarse fibres in the blend. Industrial washing can damage fibre length. High-speed spinning prioritises output over consistency. Cut-and-sew construction creates raw edges and less refined fit. Lower costs but visible quality compromises. Result: initial softness fades quickly, more pilling, less refined shape.
The clearest way to understand the difference: wash a £40 high-street cashmere jumper five times and a £200 Italian cashmere jumper five times. After the fifth wash, the quality gap is unmistakable.
Gran Sasso — Italian Knitwear Since 1952
Gran Sasso is the brand that proves Italian cashmere processing is not just marketing. Founded in 1952 in Sant’Egidio alla Vibrata in the Abruzzo region of central Italy, Gran Sasso has been producing premium knitwear for over seven decades. The factory sits in the shadow of the Gran Sasso d’Italia massif — the highest mountain in the Apennines — and the brand takes its name from that landscape.
What Makes Gran Sasso Different
Gran Sasso controls the entire production process in-house, from yarn selection to finished garment. The company uses fully-fashioned knitting machines that shape each panel to size, eliminating the need to cut fabric and creating cleaner seams. Their quality control is meticulous — every garment is inspected before leaving the factory.
The brand does not only work in cashmere. Gran Sasso is equally known for its merino wool, cotton, and silk knitwear, as well as innovative blends that combine natural fibres for specific performance characteristics. Their hybrid jackets — knitted body with quilted nylon panels — demonstrate the kind of innovation that comes from seven decades of expertise.
The Gran Sasso Range at OD’s
We stock Gran Sasso’s core menswear range: polo shirts (cable-knit and stripe), zip cardigans, hooded knits, hybrid jackets, and reversible pieces. Prices range from £190 for a knitted polo to £350 for a hybrid jacket. Every piece is made in Italy, finished to a standard that justifies the investment, and designed to be worn season after season.
How to Care for Cashmere
Cashmere is a natural fibre that rewards proper care with decades of use. Mistreating it shortens its life dramatically. Here is how to look after your investment:
Washing
- Hand wash in cold water (30°C maximum) with a gentle detergent or dedicated cashmere wash
- Never machine wash on a regular cycle — the agitation damages fibres and causes felting
- If machine washing: use a delicates bag, cold water, wool/delicates cycle, and minimal spin
- Never wring or twist — gently squeeze excess water out, then roll in a clean towel to absorb moisture
Drying
- Lay flat to dry on a clean towel, reshaping the garment to its original dimensions while damp
- Never hang wet cashmere — the weight of water stretches the fibres permanently
- Never tumble dry — heat damages cashmere fibres and causes shrinkage
- Keep away from direct heat (radiators, sunlight) while drying
Storage
- Fold, never hang — hangers cause shoulder bumps in knitwear
- Use cedar balls or lavender sachets for moth protection (moths eat natural fibres)
- Store in breathable fabric bags or drawers, not plastic bags (which trap moisture)
- Clean before storing for summer — moths are attracted to body oils and food traces on fibres
Pilling
All cashmere pills initially — it is a natural process where shorter fibres work loose from the surface. Use a cashmere comb or fabric shaver to remove pills gently. After the first few wears, pilling reduces significantly as the shortest fibres are removed. Higher-quality cashmere (Grade A/B, Italian-processed) pills less because the fibres are longer and more tightly spun.
Shop Gran Sasso at OD’s
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Italian cashmere?
Italian cashmere refers to cashmere fibre processed and manufactured into garments in Italy. The raw fibre comes from cashmere goats in Central Asia, but Italian mills (in regions like Abruzzo, Biella, and Prato) apply superior processing, spinning, and knitting techniques that produce softer, more durable, and better-finished garments than mass-produced alternatives.
Why is Italian cashmere more expensive?
Italian processing is more labour-intensive, uses gentler techniques that preserve fibre quality, and employs fully-fashioned knitting that shapes garments on the machine rather than cutting from flat fabric. Italian mills also select higher-grade raw cashmere (Grade A and B). These factors combine to produce measurably better garments at higher cost.
How can I tell good cashmere from bad?
Touch it: good cashmere feels soft without being slippery. Stretch it gently: quality cashmere springs back to shape immediately. Check the label: fibre diameter (lower micron count = finer) and country of manufacture are indicators. Price is a reliable guide — quality cashmere knitwear starts at £150+. Anything under £50 is almost certainly low-grade.
Does cashmere pill?
All cashmere pills initially as shorter fibres work loose from the surface. Higher-quality, Italian-processed cashmere pills less because the fibres are longer and more tightly spun. Use a cashmere comb to remove pills gently. After the first few wears, pilling reduces significantly.
How should I wash cashmere?
Hand wash in cold water (30°C maximum) with gentle detergent. Never wring or twist. Lay flat to dry on a towel, reshaping while damp. Never hang wet cashmere (causes stretching) or tumble dry (causes shrinkage). Store folded, not hung, with moth protection.
Where can I buy Gran Sasso in the UK?
OD’s Designer Clothing stocks the Gran Sasso menswear range at 44 Barrow Street, St Helens, WA10 1RY. Visit us Monday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm. We carry polo shirts, cardigans, hoodies, and hybrid jackets — all made in Italy.