French Terry Explained
In brief: French terry is a knitted fabric with a smooth face on the outside and soft unbrushed loops on the inside. It is heavier than a plain jersey but lighter and more breathable than brushed fleece, because the loops are left as loops rather than being brushed up into a fuzzy pile. Usually cotton or a cotton blend with a little elastane for stretch, it is the go-to fabric for elevated sweatshirts, hoodies and joggers worn year round.
What is French terry?
French terry is a knit fabric defined by its two distinct faces. The outer face is smooth and flat, while the inner face carries rows of soft, looped yarns, known as a loopback. Those loops give the fabric its cushioned hand-feel and its ability to absorb moisture, while the smooth outer face takes print and looks clean. Because it is a knit rather than a woven, it has natural give and drapes softly. It sits in a sweet spot of weight: substantial enough to feel premium and hold its shape, yet light enough to wear comfortably in milder weather without overheating.
French terry vs fleece
French terry and brushed fleece often start life in a similar way, but the key difference is the final step. In fleece, the inner loops are brushed or sheared to raise a soft, fuzzy pile that traps more air and feels warmer. In French terry, those loops are left intact and unbrushed. The result is a lighter, more breathable fabric with a cleaner inner surface, better drape and quicker drying. Fleece is the warmer, cosier option for cold weather; French terry is the more versatile, all-season choice that looks sharper and layers more easily under a jacket.
What French terry is made from
Most French terry is predominantly cotton, prized for its softness, breathability and the way it takes dye. Many modern versions blend in a small percentage of elastane, often in the region of three to ten percent, to add stretch and help the garment hold its shape through wear and washing. You will also find blends with polyester for added durability and reduced shrinkage, and premium loopback styles in heavier cotton weights for a more structured feel. The exact blend shapes how the fabric behaves: more cotton means a softer, more natural hand, while a touch of elastane keeps cuffs, collars and waistbands snug.
French terry weight and GSM
Fabric weight is measured in grams per square metre, or GSM, and French terry spans a broad range from lighter spring-weight cloth to heavy, structured loopback. Lighter weights feel cool and drape close to the body, while heavier weights feel substantial and hold a defined shape, which is why premium sweatshirts often use a mid to heavy French terry. There is no single right weight: it depends on whether you want a soft summer layer or a robust year-round sweat. As a rule, the heavier the GSM, the warmer and more structured the garment will feel.
How to care for French terry
French terry is easy to live with if you protect its loops and its shape. Wash it inside out on a cool cycle to preserve the smooth outer face and any print, and avoid high heat, which is the main cause of shrinkage in cotton-rich knits. Tumble dry on low or, better still, dry flat or on a hanger to keep the shape. Skip fabric softener, which can coat the loops and reduce softness over time, and reshape cuffs and hems while damp. Treated gently, a good French terry sweatshirt keeps its soft inner loops and clean outer face for years.
French terry at OD's Designer Clothing
At OD's Designer Clothing we stock French terry sweatshirts, hoodies and joggers from premium labels chosen for the quality of their cloth and the cleanness of their finish. It is one of the most versatile fabrics we carry, equally at home under a jacket in winter or worn on its own in milder weather. We offer next-day delivery and free click and collect, and customers in the North West are welcome to feel the weight and softness in person at our St Helens store.