Footwear Care -- Keeping Shoes Looking and Lasting Their Best
A good pair of shoes is an investment, and a little care doubles how long they last and how good they look. The right method depends on the material -- leather, suede and mesh all want different treatment -- so this guide covers cleaning, protecting, drying and storing by material, plus when to repair rather than replace. The materials hub explains what your shoes are made from if you are unsure.
Cleaning
Everyday Cleaning
The simple routine that stops dirt becoming permanent damage.
How to do it
Knock off loose dirt after each wear and wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth. For trainers, a soft brush and a little mild soap on the upper does most of the work. The key is doing it little and often, before grime sets in.
Why it matters
Dirt left to dry grinds into the material and stains it. A two-minute wipe-down after a muddy walk saves a deep clean later and keeps shoes looking new for far longer.
Deep Cleaning Trainers
How to safely revive grubby trainers without wrecking them.
How to do it
Remove the laces and footbed, brush off loose dirt, then clean the upper with a soft brush and a dedicated trainer cleaner or mild soap. Wipe, do not soak, and air-dry away from heat. Clean laces separately.
Why it matters
Trainers gather sweat and grime that a quick wipe misses. A proper but gentle deep clean lifts it without the soaking and machine-washing that break down glue and foam.
Should You Machine Wash?
When the washing machine is safe -- and when it ruins shoes.
How to do it
Avoid it where you can. Most shoes -- especially leather, suede and anything glued or with a membrane -- should never go in. Some canvas plimsolls and basic synthetic trainers tolerate a cold, gentle cycle in a bag, air-dried after.
Why it matters
Machine heat and agitation melt glue, crush foam and crack leather. What looks like a shortcut often shortens a shoe's life dramatically, so hand-cleaning is almost always safer.
Material Care
Caring for Leather
Cleaning, conditioning and polishing to keep leather supple and protected.
How to do it
Wipe clean, let dry naturally, then condition occasionally to stop the leather drying and cracking. Polish smooth leather to feed and shine it. Full-grain leather ages into a patina if looked after.
Why it matters
Leather is skin -- it dries out and cracks without feeding. Regular conditioning keeps it supple, water-resistant and good-looking for years rather than seasons.
Caring for Suede & Nubuck
The brush-and-protect routine these delicate napped leathers need.
How to do it
Brush suede and nubuck with a suede brush to lift dirt and revive the nap, use a suede rubber for scuffs, and never soak them. A protector spray is essential from new.
Why it matters
Suede and nubuck mark and water-stain easily because of their open nap. Brushing and a protector spray are the difference between them staying smart and looking ruined after one wet day.
Caring for Mesh & Knit
Gentle cleaning for the soft fabric uppers on modern trainers.
How to do it
Brush off dirt and spot-clean knit and engineered-mesh uppers with a soft brush, mild soap and a damp cloth. Avoid soaking, harsh scrubbing and heat, which distort the weave. Air-dry only.
Why it matters
Mesh and knit are light and breathable but delicate. Gentle cleaning keeps them looking fresh, while rough handling frays the fibres and ruins the shape.
Reproofing & Protection
Restoring water resistance with sprays and treatments as it wears off.
How to do it
Apply a suitable protector spray to new shoes and reproof periodically as water stops beading. Use the right type for the material -- a spray made for suede, leather or membranes -- and let it cure fully before wear.
Why it matters
Factory water resistance wears off with use and cleaning. Reproofing keeps feet dry and stops stains soaking in, and it is far cheaper than replacing a soaked, ruined pair.
Storage & Repair
Drying Wet Shoes
The safe way to dry shoes without cracking, shrinking or warping them.
How to do it
Loosen the laces, remove the footbeds, and stuff with newspaper or a shoe dryer to draw out moisture and hold the shape. Dry at room temperature, away from radiators, heaters and direct sun. Change the stuffing as it dampens.
Why it matters
Direct heat is the enemy -- it cracks leather, melts glue and warps soles. Slow air-drying keeps the shape and the structure intact, so wet shoes recover instead of being wrecked.
Odour & Freshness
Keeping shoes fresh by managing the moisture that causes smell.
How to do it
Let shoes air and dry fully between wears, rotate pairs so each dries out, and remove and air the footbeds. Moisture-wicking socks and the occasional freshener help; replaceable footbeds can be swapped when tired.
Why it matters
Odour comes from bacteria thriving in damp shoes, not dirty feet alone. Keeping shoes dry and aired stops the smell at its source, far better than masking it.
Rotation & Storage
Why resting and storing shoes properly makes them last longer.
How to do it
Rotate between pairs so each fully dries and the foam recovers between wears. Store in a cool, dry place out of direct sun, ideally with shoe trees or light stuffing to hold the shape. Keep boxes for long-term storage.
Why it matters
Worn daily, foam never recovers and damp never clears, so shoes wear out and smell faster. A simple rotation can double the life of a favourite pair.
Repair, Resole & Replace
Knowing when a shoe is worth fixing and when it is done.
How to do it
Quality leather shoes and Goodyear-welted boots can be resoled and repaired many times. Glued trainers usually cannot, but worn footbeds, laces and grips are easy swaps. Judge by the upper: if it is sound, repair is worth it.
Why it matters
A well-made shoe is built to be repaired, making it cheaper over its life than replacing cheap pairs. Knowing what can be fixed saves money and waste -- the construction hub explains which builds are repairable.
Frequently asked questions
How do I clean white trainers?
Remove the laces, brush off loose dirt, then gently clean the upper with a soft brush and a dedicated trainer cleaner or mild soap and water. Wipe rather than soak, clean the laces separately, and air-dry away from heat. For mesh go gently; for leather finish with a wipe and light conditioning.
Can I put my shoes in the washing machine?
Usually no. Leather, suede, glued shoes and anything with a waterproof membrane should never be machine washed -- the heat and agitation melt glue, crush foam and crack leather. Only some canvas plimsolls and basic synthetic trainers tolerate a cold, gentle cycle in a bag, air-dried afterwards.
How do I dry wet shoes without damaging them?
Loosen the laces, take out the footbeds, and stuff the shoes with newspaper to draw out moisture and hold their shape. Dry at room temperature away from radiators, heaters and direct sun. Never use direct heat -- it cracks leather, melts adhesives and warps the soles.
How do I look after suede shoes?
Brush suede with a suede brush to lift dirt and revive the nap, use a suede rubber or eraser on scuffs, and never soak it. Apply a suede protector spray from new and reproof periodically. Suede marks and water-stains easily, so prevention with a protector is far easier than removing stains later.
Are expensive shoes worth repairing?
Often yes. Quality leather shoes and Goodyear-welted boots are built to be resoled and repaired many times, making them cheaper over their life than replacing cheap pairs. Glued trainers are harder to resole, but laces, footbeds and grips are easy swaps. If the upper is sound, repair is usually worthwhile.