Weaves & Knits -- How Fabric Is Constructed
Two shirts made of the same cotton can feel worlds apart -- one crisp and structured, the other soft and stretchy -- because of how the cloth is constructed. Woven fabrics interlace threads at right angles for stability; knitted fabrics loop yarn for stretch and softness. This guide explains the main woven and knitted constructions, and how to read them, so you understand why a fabric behaves the way it does. It links to the fabric types overview and the quality hub.
Woven Fabrics
Twill
The diagonal weave behind denim, chinos and gabardine.
What it is
Twill is woven with a diagonal rib created by passing the weft over and under multiple warp threads in a stepped pattern. It is strong, drapes well and hides marks.
Why it matters
Twill is everywhere durability matters -- denim, chinos, gabardine. The diagonal grain gives it strength and a soft, fluid drape, making it a versatile, hard-wearing construction.
Poplin
The crisp, smooth plain weave of a classic shirt.
What it is
Poplin is a tightly woven plain weave with a smooth, crisp surface and a subtle sheen. It is lightweight, breathable and presses to a sharp finish.
Why it matters
Poplin is the benchmark for a clean, formal shirt. Its smooth face and crisp hand give a polished look, which is why it dominates dress shirting.
Oxford Weave
The textured, durable weave of the everyday shirt.
What it is
Oxford weave uses a basketweave structure that gives a soft, slightly textured, more casual surface than poplin, with good durability and breathability.
Why it matters
Oxford cloth is the relaxed, hard-wearing alternative to crisp poplin -- ideal for the button-down shirts that go with everything. Its texture adds character and toughness.
Sateen
A smooth, lustrous weave with a soft sheen.
What it is
Sateen is a weave that floats more warp threads on the surface, giving a smooth, lustrous face and a soft, slightly heavier drape than plain weaves.
Why it matters
Sateen brings a subtle sheen and silky hand to cotton, used where a softer, more luxurious finish is wanted. It is the woven cousin of the knitted softness found in jersey.
Corduroy
The ridged, brushed weave with a distinctive cord pattern.
What it is
Corduroy is a woven fabric with raised parallel ridges (wales) of cut pile, giving a soft, warm, textured surface. The wale count sets how fine or chunky the cord looks.
Why it matters
Corduroy adds warmth and tactile character to trousers and jackets, a seasonal favourite. The wale count lets you choose between fine and refined or bold and rugged.
Knitted Fabrics
Jersey
The soft, stretchy knit behind T-shirts and polos.
What it is
Jersey is a single knit construction that is soft, lightweight and naturally stretchy, with a smooth face and looped back. It is the classic T-shirt and polo fabric.
Why it matters
Jersey's comfort and stretch made it the foundation of casual knitted clothing. The weight and fibre decide whether it feels like a summer tee or a substantial polo.
French Terry
The looped knit behind comfortable sweatshirts.
What it is
French terry is a knit with soft loops on the inside face and a smooth outside, giving a comfortable, moderately warm, absorbent fabric without heavy brushing.
Why it matters
French terry is the go-to for sweatshirts and joggers that feel soft and breathable rather than bulky. It bridges lightweight jersey and heavy brushed fleece.
Ponte Roma
A firm, stable double knit that holds its shape.
What it is
Ponte Roma is a firm double-knit fabric with a stable, substantial hand and a little stretch. It holds its shape well and resists creasing.
Why it matters
Ponte gives knitwear and smart-casual pieces structure and recovery, so they look tailored but move comfortably. It is a favourite for pieces that need to keep their shape.
Seamless & Fine-Gauge Knit
Advanced knitting for smooth, shaped garments.
What it is
Seamless knitting creates a garment in one piece with few or no seams, while fine-gauge knitting uses thin yarn at high density for a smooth, refined surface.
Why it matters
These techniques produce comfortable, body-shaping knitwear with a clean finish and no seam bulk. They show the sophistication of modern knitting, seen in premium Italian knitwear.
Reading Construction
Jacquard
Intricate patterns woven or knitted into the cloth itself.
What it is
Jacquard uses a special loom or knitting machine to build a pattern directly into the fabric structure, rather than printing it on. The design is part of the weave or knit.
Why it matters
Jacquard patterns are richer and more durable than prints because they are woven in, not applied. Italian jacquard especially signals craftsmanship and quality in knitwear and shirting.
Reading GSM & Gauge
The numbers that tell you a fabric's weight and density.
What it means
GSM (grams per square metre) measures fabric weight, while gauge measures how tightly a fabric is knitted (higher gauge means finer, denser knit). Together they describe substance and refinement.
Why it matters
These numbers tell you how heavy, warm and substantial a fabric will feel before you handle it. A higher GSM jersey feels premium; a higher gauge knit looks more refined. They are key quality signals.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a woven and a knitted fabric?
Woven fabric is made by interlacing two sets of threads at right angles, giving a stable, structured cloth with little natural stretch -- think shirts, denim and chinos. Knitted fabric is made by looping a single yarn, creating a soft, stretchy and flexible cloth -- think T-shirts, polos and jumpers. Wovens hold their shape and press crisp; knits stretch, drape and feel softer.
What is the difference between poplin and Oxford shirt fabric?
Poplin is a tightly woven plain weave with a smooth, crisp, slightly lustrous surface that presses to a sharp finish, making it ideal for formal dress shirts. Oxford uses a basketweave structure that is softer, more textured and more casual, with greater durability. Poplin suits smart and formal looks; Oxford suits relaxed, hard-wearing button-down shirts.
What is jersey fabric?
Jersey is a knitted fabric, traditionally a single knit, that is soft, lightweight and naturally stretchy, with a smooth front face and a looped back. It is the classic fabric for T-shirts, polo shirts and casual tops because it is comfortable and moves with the body. The fibre and weight (GSM) determine whether a jersey feels like a light summer tee or a substantial polo.
What does GSM mean for fabric?
GSM stands for grams per square metre and measures the weight or density of a fabric. A low GSM means a light, thin fabric; a high GSM means a heavier, thicker, more substantial one. It helps you judge how warm, durable and premium a fabric will feel before handling it -- a heavyweight jersey at high GSM feels noticeably more substantial than a thin, low-GSM one.
What is jacquard fabric?
Jacquard is a fabric where an intricate pattern is woven or knitted directly into the cloth using a special loom or machine, rather than printed onto the surface. Because the design is built into the structure, it is richer, more textured and far more durable than a print. Italian jacquard in particular is associated with high-quality, finely patterned knitwear and shirting.